Section 1: Introduction
This Section Explains
* Commercial Drivers License Test
* Other Safety Rules
There is a federal requirement that each state have minimum standards for the licensing of commercial drivers. This manual provides driver license testing information for Wisconsin drivers who wish to have a Commercial Drivers License (CDL). Infrormation for drivers who wish to operate a school bus in Wisconsin is contained in Volume 2.
You must have a CDL to operate:
* Any single vehicle with gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR), actual weight, or registered weight over 26,000 lbs. or such vehicle towing a vehicle with a GVWR, actual weight, or registered weight of 10,000 lbs. or less.
* Any combination of vehicles with gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR), actual weight, or registered weight over 26,000 lbs. provided the GVWR, actual weight, or registered weight of the towed vehicle(s) is more than 10,000 lbs.
* A vehicle transporting hazardous materials in amounts requiring placarding.
* A vehicle that is designed OR used to transport 16 or more passangers, including the driver.
Any vehicle for which a CDL is required is considered a Commercial Motor Vehicle (CMV)
To get a CDL, you must pass knowledge and Skills test.
Safety First!
Jayson Z
Sunday, February 3, 2008
1.1 Commercial Driver License Test
1.1 Commercial Driver License Test
Knowledge Test
You will have to take one or more knowledge test, depending on what class of license and what endorsements you need.
The CDL knowledge test include:
* The General Knowledge Test, taken by all applicants.
* The Passenger Transport Test, taken by all bus driver applicants.
* The School Bus Test is required if you want to drive a school bus.
* The Air Brakes Test, which you must take if your vehicle has air brakes.
* The Combination Vehicle Test, which is required if you want to drive combination vehicles.
* The Hazardous Vehicles Test, required if you want to haul hazardous material or waste in amounts which require placarding.
* The Tanker Test, required if you want to haul liquids in bulk.
* The Doubles/Tripples Test, required if you want to pull double or triple trailers.
Skills Test
If you pass the required knowledge test(s), you can take the CDL skills test. There are three types of general skills that will be tested: pre-trip inspection, basic vehicle control, and on-road driving. You must take these test in the type of vehicle for which you wish to be licensed.
Pre-trip Vehicle Inspection. You will be tested to see if you know whether your vehicle is safe to drive. You will be asked to do a pre-trip inspection of your vehicle and explain to the examiner what you would inspect and why
Basic Vehicle Control. You will be tested on your skill to control the vehicle. You will be asked to move your vehicle forward, backward, and turn it within a defined area. These areas may be marked with traffic lanes, cones, barriers, or something similar. The examiner will tell you how each control test is done.
On-Road Test. You will be tested on your skill to safely drive your vehicle in a variety of traffic situations. The situations may include left and right turns, intersections, railroad crossings, curves, up and down grades, single or multi-lane roads, streets, or highways. The examiner will tell you where to drive.
Safety First!
Jayson Z
Knowledge Test
You will have to take one or more knowledge test, depending on what class of license and what endorsements you need.
The CDL knowledge test include:
* The General Knowledge Test, taken by all applicants.
* The Passenger Transport Test, taken by all bus driver applicants.
* The School Bus Test is required if you want to drive a school bus.
* The Air Brakes Test, which you must take if your vehicle has air brakes.
* The Combination Vehicle Test, which is required if you want to drive combination vehicles.
* The Hazardous Vehicles Test, required if you want to haul hazardous material or waste in amounts which require placarding.
* The Tanker Test, required if you want to haul liquids in bulk.
* The Doubles/Tripples Test, required if you want to pull double or triple trailers.
Skills Test
If you pass the required knowledge test(s), you can take the CDL skills test. There are three types of general skills that will be tested: pre-trip inspection, basic vehicle control, and on-road driving. You must take these test in the type of vehicle for which you wish to be licensed.
Pre-trip Vehicle Inspection. You will be tested to see if you know whether your vehicle is safe to drive. You will be asked to do a pre-trip inspection of your vehicle and explain to the examiner what you would inspect and why
Basic Vehicle Control. You will be tested on your skill to control the vehicle. You will be asked to move your vehicle forward, backward, and turn it within a defined area. These areas may be marked with traffic lanes, cones, barriers, or something similar. The examiner will tell you how each control test is done.
On-Road Test. You will be tested on your skill to safely drive your vehicle in a variety of traffic situations. The situations may include left and right turns, intersections, railroad crossings, curves, up and down grades, single or multi-lane roads, streets, or highways. The examiner will tell you where to drive.
Safety First!
Jayson Z
1.2 Other CDL Rules
1.2 Other CDL Rules
There are other rules which affect drivers operating CMV's.
* You cannot have more than one license. If you break this rule, a court may fine you up to $5,000 or put you in jail. Keep your home state license and return others.
* You must notify your employer within 30 days of a conviction for any traffic violations (except parking). This is true no matter what type of vehicle you were driving.
* You must notify your motor vehicle licensing agency within 30 days if you are convicted in any other state of any traffic violation (except parking). This is true no matter what type of vehicle you were driving.
* You must notify your employer within one working day if your CDL privilege is suspended, revoked, canceled, or disqualified.
* You must give your employer information on all driving jobs you held for the past 10 years. You must do this when you apply for a commercial driving job.
* All states are connected to one computerized system to share information about CDL drivers. The states will check on driver's records to be sure that drivers don't get more than one CDL.
Some are excempt from CDL licensing depending on the State you live in. For more information visit your local DMV location.
* Fire Fighters and rescue squad members will not need a CDL to drive properly equipped emergency or fire fighting vehicles.
* Recreational vehicle operators (owned or leased motor home, fifth wheel mobile home, or touring mobile homa provided it isn't longer than 45 feet) not engaged in commercial activity will not need a CDL
* A Farmer will not need a CDL to drive a commercial motor vehicle owned or leased by the farmer, provided the vehicle is not used in "for hire" carriage, is transporting farm supplies, produce or machinery to or from the farm and is within 150 miles of the farm. The farm supplies that a farmer may transport without obtaining a CDL may include hazardous materials. However, a farmer driving a commercial motor vehicle with double or tripple trailers, or designed to carry or actually carrying 16 or more passengers must have a CDL with proper endorsments.
* Back-up (substitute or replacement) Snowplow drivers (includes snow or ice removal by plowing, salting or sanding) for local units of government (defined as a county, city, village, town, school district, county utility district, sanitary district, metropolitan sewage district, or other public body created by or pursuant to state law) will not need a CDL if they meet all of the following:
* Are an employee of a local unit of government with a population of 3,000 or less.
* Hold a valid Class D license.
* Are operating within the bounderies of the local unit of government
* Are one of the following:
- Substitutingfor ar replacing a regular employee who ordinarily operates the vehicle.
- An additional employee because a snow emergency exist (asdetermined by the local unit of government).
Safety First!
Jayson Z
There are other rules which affect drivers operating CMV's.
* You cannot have more than one license. If you break this rule, a court may fine you up to $5,000 or put you in jail. Keep your home state license and return others.
* You must notify your employer within 30 days of a conviction for any traffic violations (except parking). This is true no matter what type of vehicle you were driving.
* You must notify your motor vehicle licensing agency within 30 days if you are convicted in any other state of any traffic violation (except parking). This is true no matter what type of vehicle you were driving.
* You must notify your employer within one working day if your CDL privilege is suspended, revoked, canceled, or disqualified.
* You must give your employer information on all driving jobs you held for the past 10 years. You must do this when you apply for a commercial driving job.
* All states are connected to one computerized system to share information about CDL drivers. The states will check on driver's records to be sure that drivers don't get more than one CDL.
Some are excempt from CDL licensing depending on the State you live in. For more information visit your local DMV location.
* Fire Fighters and rescue squad members will not need a CDL to drive properly equipped emergency or fire fighting vehicles.
* Recreational vehicle operators (owned or leased motor home, fifth wheel mobile home, or touring mobile homa provided it isn't longer than 45 feet) not engaged in commercial activity will not need a CDL
* A Farmer will not need a CDL to drive a commercial motor vehicle owned or leased by the farmer, provided the vehicle is not used in "for hire" carriage, is transporting farm supplies, produce or machinery to or from the farm and is within 150 miles of the farm. The farm supplies that a farmer may transport without obtaining a CDL may include hazardous materials. However, a farmer driving a commercial motor vehicle with double or tripple trailers, or designed to carry or actually carrying 16 or more passengers must have a CDL with proper endorsments.
* Back-up (substitute or replacement) Snowplow drivers (includes snow or ice removal by plowing, salting or sanding) for local units of government (defined as a county, city, village, town, school district, county utility district, sanitary district, metropolitan sewage district, or other public body created by or pursuant to state law) will not need a CDL if they meet all of the following:
* Are an employee of a local unit of government with a population of 3,000 or less.
* Hold a valid Class D license.
* Are operating within the bounderies of the local unit of government
* Are one of the following:
- Substitutingfor ar replacing a regular employee who ordinarily operates the vehicle.
- An additional employee because a snow emergency exist (asdetermined by the local unit of government).
Safety First!
Jayson Z
1.3 Wisconsin CDL
1.3 Wisconsin CDL
Who is exempt from CDL licensing in Wisconsin?
Federal law allows states the option to waive certain kinds of drivers from the requirement to obtain a CDL. In Wisconsin, fire fighters, emergency vehicle operators, recreational vehicle drivers and farmers do not need a CDL to operate certain CMV's but remain subject to the alcohol and traffic rules that apply to all commercial motor vehicle drivers. Wisconsin waivers include:
* Fire fighters and rescue squad members will not need a CDL to drive properly equipped emergency or fire fighting vehicles.
* Recreational vehicle operators (owned or leased motor home, fifth wheel mobile home, or touring mobile home provided it isn't longer than 45 feet) not engaged in commercial activity will not need a CDL.
A farmer will not need a CDL to drive a commercial motor vehicle owned or leased by the farmer, provided the vehicle is not used in "for hire" carriege, is transporting farm supplies, produce or machinery to or from the farm and is within 150 miles of the farm. The farm supplies that a farmer may transport without obtaining a CDL may include hazardous materials. However, a farmer driving a commercial motor vehicle with double or triple trailers, or designed to carry or actually carying 16 or more passengers must have a CDL with proper endorsemsnts.
* Back-up (substitutes or replacement) snowplow drivers (includes snow or ice removal by plowing, salting or sanding) for local units of government (defined as a county, city, village, town, school district, county utility district, sanitary district, metropolitan sewage district, or other public body created by or pursuant to state law) will not need a CDL if they meet all of the following:
-Are an employee of a local unit of government with a population of 3,000 or less
-Hold a valid Class D license
-Are operating within the boundaries of the local unit of government.
Are one of the following:
*Substituting for or replacing a regular employee who ordinarily operates the vehicle
*An additional employee because a snow emergency exists (ad determined by the local unit of government)
What is the Classified License?
What are Endorsemwnts?
My State of "Wisconsin" (might be different from other states. check with your local DMV) will issue ENDORSEMENTS for specific types of operation. These endorsements require additional knowledge testing. The information you need for special operation. You must pass tests and receive an endorsement to operate a:
* school bus "S
* passanger vehicle "P"_designed to transport or actually transporting 16 or more passangers including the driver
* hazardous materials - hazmat "H"
* tank vehicles "N" -commercial vehicles equipped with a cargo tank
* double or tripple trailers "T" -towing doubles or tripple trailers
* farm service "F" -restricted to farm service operation
What is a CDL Restriction?
A Wisconsin commercial operator who wants to drive a vehicle with air brakes must pass a special knowledge test on air brake systems. You must also pass a skills test in a vehicle equipped with air brakes. If you choose not to take the air brake test, you will have a commercial license restriction of "No CMV Operation with Air Brakes". With this restriction on your CDL, you may not legally operate any commercial vehicle with air brakes.
Federal Medical Standards
Applicants for CDL must meet all federal physical qualifications. To drive in interstate commerce, an applicant must be at least 21 years old. However, applicants ages 18 to 21 may receive a restricted CDL, limited to intrastate (within WI) operation only. The CDL will be restricted to "No CMV Operation in Interstate Commerce".
Who was grandfathered and what are the benefits?
Effective July 29, 1996: Drivers of commercial motor vehicles (CMV) operating in intrastate commerce must meet the federal medical standards and present a valid federal medical card when they apply for a commercial driver's license (CDL) unless they have been grandfathered or are excempt by federal or state law. A copy of the federal medical standards is available at DMV Customer Service Centers.
Exception-Grandfathering: Drivers who were issued a Wisconsin CDL or CDL instruction permit prior to July 29, 1996 need to meet only Wisconsin medical requirements for intrastate (within Wisconsin only) operation. CDL license will be restricted to "No CMV operation in Interstate Commerce". However, drivers whose CDLs are revoked on or after July 29, 1996 will lose their Grandfathered status. If they don't meet the state medical standards, drivers are allowed an appeal to the Medical Review Board.
School bus drivers employed by school districts and driving a school bus owned by the district are excempt from the federal standards. They may cross state lines to transport (carry) students between home and school or when driving to curricular or extracurricular activities and charter trips.
School bus drivers employed by a commercial contractor and driving a school bus owned by the contractor are excempt from the Federal standards while operating within Wisconsin. They may also cross state lines to transport students between home and school. Operation across state lines for curricular, or extra curricular activities and charter trips would require the driver to have a valid federal medical card.
Drivers who do not have a federal medical card and are not grandfathered may be issued a regular CDL or CDL instruction permit with the following two restrictions:
* No CMV operation in interstate commerce.
* No CMV operation in intrastate commerce unless excempted by federal or state law.
Holders of a regular CDL or CDL instruction permit with these two restrictions are limited to the following CMV operation:
- Operate a motor truck or motor bus for political subdivision prvided they are an employee of the political subdivision and the CDL has the proper class and endorsement for the CMV being operated.
- Operate a school bus if they meet the state medical standards for a schoolbus endorsement and the CDL has the proper class and endorsement for the CMV being operated.
Note: Drivers who have a CDL instruction permit with both restrictions may not practice operating a truck with a commercial driving school. However, if they are taking a commercial driving class to operate a CMV through a Wisconsin Technical College, they may practice operating with the technical school because it's a political subdivision.
For drivers needing a P endorsement, such as those driving busses owned by a municipality (which is exempt), having both restrictions is fine. For others, such as those driving busses for private human service agency (which is not excempt), the "No CMV operation in Intrastate Commerce" and "No CMV operation in Interstate Commerce" restrictions will not be acceptable and they will need to present the federal medical card, unless grandfathered, to avoid these restriction. Drivers must know the type of operation in which they will be involved to determine whether or not they need a federal medical card.
If you do not meet the federal visual acuity standard of 20/40 in both eyes but have a federal medical card, you will be referred to a vision or other appropriate medical specialist. If you are issued a permit or license, you will have tthe "No CMV operation in Interstate Commerce" restriction. If you are not grandfathered, you will also have the "No CMV operation in intrastate Commerce" restriction.
If you are 18, 19 or 20 years of age and have not been grandfathered or are not excempt by federal or state law, you will need a federal medical card if you wish to operate a CMV in intrastate commerce. If you have a federal medical card, your CDL will be issued with the "No CMV Operation in Interstate Commerce" restriction because federal law does not permit a person under age 21 to operate a CMV in interstate commerce.
You can appeal to the Medical Review Board for intrastate driving if you have beeen grandfathered. If you are a new driver who plans to drive for the exempt groups (political subdivision or school district) you also can appeal to the board. However, the board cannot make any exceptions to the federal standards; therefore, anyone who needs a federal medical card cannot appeal to the board.
Identification Requirements
Applicants for driver licenses will be required to furnish their Social Security number. The Social Security number will not appear on the driver license document but will be used to identify driver records between states.
Additional testing at renewal for "H"
To renew a CDL with an "H" (hazardous materials) endorsement, applicants must pass a hazardous materials knowledge test.
Farm Service CDL
A special, restricted CDL called a Farm Service CDL is available for seasonal drivers of certain CMV's when employed by specific farm related service industries. Contact your DMV Service Center(s) for details.
Instruction Permits for Commercial Drivers
New commercial drivers must get an instruction (CDLI) to practice driving a commercial motor vehicle (CMV) to prepare for the CDL skills test. To obtain the permit you must:
• Be at least 18 years of age.
• Hold a valid operator’s license.
• Pass the knowledge test for the type of vehicle you will be driving.
• Have a valid federal medical card.
Persons who do not have a valid federal medical card will be restricted to:
• No CMV operation in interstate commerce.
• No CMV operation in intrastate commerce unless exempted by federal or state laws, i.e., employed by a government agency or operating a school bus (a state medical form is required for school bus operation).
A CDL instruction permit is valid only for CMV’s. The permit is valid for 6 months ad will list the type of vehicles and endorsements for which you have qualified. Certain restriction will apply to your operation with a CDL instruction permit:
• You must have a qualified driving instructor or a person who is licensed to operate that type CMV, and is at least 21 years old, sitting next to you at all times.
• You may not transport passengers. However, if the accompanying driver is a qualified instructor, 3 other persons with instruction permits may also ride along.
• You may carry property in a CMV while you are driving on an instruction permit.
• Unless you are at least 21 years old, and have a federal medical certificate (Fed Med Card), you may not operate in interstate commerce on an instruction permit.
Drivers who upgrade class, restrictions, or endorsements will need a CDL instruction permit if the upgrade requires a skills test.
Skills Testing
All applicants for a driver license must pass a skills test in the type of vehicle they plan to drive. The license endorsements for driving a school bus or a commercial motor vehicle carrying passengers require that the applicant pass a skills test in a school bus or passenger-carrying vehicle.
Third-party (non-DMV) testers/examiners are also authorized to administer CDL skills test, See inside front cover for telephone number to call for third-party tester information.
School Bus Licenses
Wisconsin school bus drivers will be tested when they first apply for a school bus endorsement. They must also pass the knowledge test and a brief skill test upon renewal (or, if 70 or older. Every 2 years) to retain their endorsements. Wisconsin school bus driver must complete a medical report (or show DOT physical exam certificate) on original application and file a new medical report every 2 years and upon renewal (if 70 or older, every year).
Fees
The following fees are in effect as of February 2000 and are subject to change without notice:
For drivers of Non-Commercial Vehicles
• Instruction Permits $25.00
• Original License $18.00*
(probationary & regular)
With Motorcycle endorsement $30.00*
• Renewal License $24.00*
(probationary & regular)
• Renewal with Motorcycle $32.00
Endorsement
• Driving Skills Test (Road Test) $15.00
-Add $15.00 fee when driving skills test required.
For Drivers of Commercial Vehicles
-Instruction Permit $20.00
-Driving Skills Test (Road Test)
*School Busses $15.00
*Other Commercial Vehicles $20.00
** This is the fee if the test is given by DMV. Third-party tester fees may be higher.
Commercial Drivers License $64.00
The fee for a commercial drivers license (CDL) is $64 for an eight year license. The $64 fee includes any endorsements added at the time of original CDL application. A CDL may be “upgraded” later to add authorization to drive additional classes or types of vehicles for $5 for each endorsement. When the license upgrade requires a skills test, a skills test fee will be charged.
Special Notes
-A CDL must be renewed every 8 years. Extensions of the 8 year period (temporary licenses, driving receipts, etc.) are not permitted. A valid CDL is necessary at all time.
-If you move (change address), you must apply for a duplicate CDL (with your new address) within 10 days of moving. Apply at any DMV Service Center.
-Any vehicle considered illegal for highway use, or for use on a skills test route, will not be allowed for skills test purposes.
Legal Size
The following is general information. For further information on size (and weight) contact your State Patrol Headquarters.
In general, size limits in Wisconsin are:
Lenght-single vehicle and load, 40'
Lenght-combination of 2 vehicles and load, 65'
Width-vehicle and load, 8'6"
Height-vehicle and load, 13'6"
Load Extensions
There are a number of exceptions which apply to farm machinery, vehicles involved in towing operations, and vehicles carrying certain types of loads.
One notable exception for lenght involves cranes or booms that are part of a hauled vehicle.
The load cannot extend beyond the left fender line, but it can extend up to 6" beyond the right fender line and up to 3" beyond the front bumper. Loads extending more than 4' beyond the rear of the vehicle must have a red flag during daylight hours and a red lamp during hours of darkness attatched to the end of the load. Some vehicles can exceed lenght limitations as follows:
1. 48' for a semitrailer or trailer operating as part of a two vehicle combination.
2. 53' for a semitrailer operating on the interstate system or designated routes, if distance from center of kingpin to center of kingpin to center of rear axle(s) is not more than 43'.
3. 28'6" for semitrailer or trailer operating as part of a double-bottom.
4. 66' plus an additional overhang of 4' to the front of the vehicle and 5' to the rear for an automobile haulaway.
Special Permits
In order to move vehicles exceeding these size, weight, and load extension dimmensions, a special permit is required. Call (608) 266-7320 for information on these moves.
Wisconsin CDL Disqualifications
Wisconsin CDL Serious Traffic Violations
Safety First!
Jayson Z
Who is exempt from CDL licensing in Wisconsin?
Federal law allows states the option to waive certain kinds of drivers from the requirement to obtain a CDL. In Wisconsin, fire fighters, emergency vehicle operators, recreational vehicle drivers and farmers do not need a CDL to operate certain CMV's but remain subject to the alcohol and traffic rules that apply to all commercial motor vehicle drivers. Wisconsin waivers include:
* Fire fighters and rescue squad members will not need a CDL to drive properly equipped emergency or fire fighting vehicles.
* Recreational vehicle operators (owned or leased motor home, fifth wheel mobile home, or touring mobile home provided it isn't longer than 45 feet) not engaged in commercial activity will not need a CDL.
A farmer will not need a CDL to drive a commercial motor vehicle owned or leased by the farmer, provided the vehicle is not used in "for hire" carriege, is transporting farm supplies, produce or machinery to or from the farm and is within 150 miles of the farm. The farm supplies that a farmer may transport without obtaining a CDL may include hazardous materials. However, a farmer driving a commercial motor vehicle with double or triple trailers, or designed to carry or actually carying 16 or more passengers must have a CDL with proper endorsemsnts.
* Back-up (substitutes or replacement) snowplow drivers (includes snow or ice removal by plowing, salting or sanding) for local units of government (defined as a county, city, village, town, school district, county utility district, sanitary district, metropolitan sewage district, or other public body created by or pursuant to state law) will not need a CDL if they meet all of the following:
-Are an employee of a local unit of government with a population of 3,000 or less
-Hold a valid Class D license
-Are operating within the boundaries of the local unit of government.
Are one of the following:
*Substituting for or replacing a regular employee who ordinarily operates the vehicle
*An additional employee because a snow emergency exists (ad determined by the local unit of government)
What is the Classified License?
What are Endorsemwnts?
My State of "Wisconsin" (might be different from other states. check with your local DMV) will issue ENDORSEMENTS for specific types of operation. These endorsements require additional knowledge testing. The information you need for special operation. You must pass tests and receive an endorsement to operate a:
* school bus "S
* passanger vehicle "P"_designed to transport or actually transporting 16 or more passangers including the driver
* hazardous materials - hazmat "H"
* tank vehicles "N" -commercial vehicles equipped with a cargo tank
* double or tripple trailers "T" -towing doubles or tripple trailers
* farm service "F" -restricted to farm service operation
What is a CDL Restriction?
A Wisconsin commercial operator who wants to drive a vehicle with air brakes must pass a special knowledge test on air brake systems. You must also pass a skills test in a vehicle equipped with air brakes. If you choose not to take the air brake test, you will have a commercial license restriction of "No CMV Operation with Air Brakes". With this restriction on your CDL, you may not legally operate any commercial vehicle with air brakes.
Federal Medical Standards
Applicants for CDL must meet all federal physical qualifications. To drive in interstate commerce, an applicant must be at least 21 years old. However, applicants ages 18 to 21 may receive a restricted CDL, limited to intrastate (within WI) operation only. The CDL will be restricted to "No CMV Operation in Interstate Commerce".
Who was grandfathered and what are the benefits?
Effective July 29, 1996: Drivers of commercial motor vehicles (CMV) operating in intrastate commerce must meet the federal medical standards and present a valid federal medical card when they apply for a commercial driver's license (CDL) unless they have been grandfathered or are excempt by federal or state law. A copy of the federal medical standards is available at DMV Customer Service Centers.
Exception-Grandfathering: Drivers who were issued a Wisconsin CDL or CDL instruction permit prior to July 29, 1996 need to meet only Wisconsin medical requirements for intrastate (within Wisconsin only) operation. CDL license will be restricted to "No CMV operation in Interstate Commerce". However, drivers whose CDLs are revoked on or after July 29, 1996 will lose their Grandfathered status. If they don't meet the state medical standards, drivers are allowed an appeal to the Medical Review Board.
School bus drivers employed by school districts and driving a school bus owned by the district are excempt from the federal standards. They may cross state lines to transport (carry) students between home and school or when driving to curricular or extracurricular activities and charter trips.
School bus drivers employed by a commercial contractor and driving a school bus owned by the contractor are excempt from the Federal standards while operating within Wisconsin. They may also cross state lines to transport students between home and school. Operation across state lines for curricular, or extra curricular activities and charter trips would require the driver to have a valid federal medical card.
Drivers who do not have a federal medical card and are not grandfathered may be issued a regular CDL or CDL instruction permit with the following two restrictions:
* No CMV operation in interstate commerce.
* No CMV operation in intrastate commerce unless excempted by federal or state law.
Holders of a regular CDL or CDL instruction permit with these two restrictions are limited to the following CMV operation:
- Operate a motor truck or motor bus for political subdivision prvided they are an employee of the political subdivision and the CDL has the proper class and endorsement for the CMV being operated.
- Operate a school bus if they meet the state medical standards for a schoolbus endorsement and the CDL has the proper class and endorsement for the CMV being operated.
Note: Drivers who have a CDL instruction permit with both restrictions may not practice operating a truck with a commercial driving school. However, if they are taking a commercial driving class to operate a CMV through a Wisconsin Technical College, they may practice operating with the technical school because it's a political subdivision.
For drivers needing a P endorsement, such as those driving busses owned by a municipality (which is exempt), having both restrictions is fine. For others, such as those driving busses for private human service agency (which is not excempt), the "No CMV operation in Intrastate Commerce" and "No CMV operation in Interstate Commerce" restrictions will not be acceptable and they will need to present the federal medical card, unless grandfathered, to avoid these restriction. Drivers must know the type of operation in which they will be involved to determine whether or not they need a federal medical card.
If you do not meet the federal visual acuity standard of 20/40 in both eyes but have a federal medical card, you will be referred to a vision or other appropriate medical specialist. If you are issued a permit or license, you will have tthe "No CMV operation in Interstate Commerce" restriction. If you are not grandfathered, you will also have the "No CMV operation in intrastate Commerce" restriction.
If you are 18, 19 or 20 years of age and have not been grandfathered or are not excempt by federal or state law, you will need a federal medical card if you wish to operate a CMV in intrastate commerce. If you have a federal medical card, your CDL will be issued with the "No CMV Operation in Interstate Commerce" restriction because federal law does not permit a person under age 21 to operate a CMV in interstate commerce.
You can appeal to the Medical Review Board for intrastate driving if you have beeen grandfathered. If you are a new driver who plans to drive for the exempt groups (political subdivision or school district) you also can appeal to the board. However, the board cannot make any exceptions to the federal standards; therefore, anyone who needs a federal medical card cannot appeal to the board.
Identification Requirements
Applicants for driver licenses will be required to furnish their Social Security number. The Social Security number will not appear on the driver license document but will be used to identify driver records between states.
Additional testing at renewal for "H"
To renew a CDL with an "H" (hazardous materials) endorsement, applicants must pass a hazardous materials knowledge test.
Farm Service CDL
A special, restricted CDL called a Farm Service CDL is available for seasonal drivers of certain CMV's when employed by specific farm related service industries. Contact your DMV Service Center(s) for details.
Instruction Permits for Commercial Drivers
New commercial drivers must get an instruction (CDLI) to practice driving a commercial motor vehicle (CMV) to prepare for the CDL skills test. To obtain the permit you must:
• Be at least 18 years of age.
• Hold a valid operator’s license.
• Pass the knowledge test for the type of vehicle you will be driving.
• Have a valid federal medical card.
Persons who do not have a valid federal medical card will be restricted to:
• No CMV operation in interstate commerce.
• No CMV operation in intrastate commerce unless exempted by federal or state laws, i.e., employed by a government agency or operating a school bus (a state medical form is required for school bus operation).
A CDL instruction permit is valid only for CMV’s. The permit is valid for 6 months ad will list the type of vehicles and endorsements for which you have qualified. Certain restriction will apply to your operation with a CDL instruction permit:
• You must have a qualified driving instructor or a person who is licensed to operate that type CMV, and is at least 21 years old, sitting next to you at all times.
• You may not transport passengers. However, if the accompanying driver is a qualified instructor, 3 other persons with instruction permits may also ride along.
• You may carry property in a CMV while you are driving on an instruction permit.
• Unless you are at least 21 years old, and have a federal medical certificate (Fed Med Card), you may not operate in interstate commerce on an instruction permit.
Drivers who upgrade class, restrictions, or endorsements will need a CDL instruction permit if the upgrade requires a skills test.
Skills Testing
All applicants for a driver license must pass a skills test in the type of vehicle they plan to drive. The license endorsements for driving a school bus or a commercial motor vehicle carrying passengers require that the applicant pass a skills test in a school bus or passenger-carrying vehicle.
Third-party (non-DMV) testers/examiners are also authorized to administer CDL skills test, See inside front cover for telephone number to call for third-party tester information.
School Bus Licenses
Wisconsin school bus drivers will be tested when they first apply for a school bus endorsement. They must also pass the knowledge test and a brief skill test upon renewal (or, if 70 or older. Every 2 years) to retain their endorsements. Wisconsin school bus driver must complete a medical report (or show DOT physical exam certificate) on original application and file a new medical report every 2 years and upon renewal (if 70 or older, every year).
Fees
The following fees are in effect as of February 2000 and are subject to change without notice:
For drivers of Non-Commercial Vehicles
• Instruction Permits $25.00
• Original License $18.00*
(probationary & regular)
With Motorcycle endorsement $30.00*
• Renewal License $24.00*
(probationary & regular)
• Renewal with Motorcycle $32.00
Endorsement
• Driving Skills Test (Road Test) $15.00
-Add $15.00 fee when driving skills test required.
For Drivers of Commercial Vehicles
-Instruction Permit $20.00
-Driving Skills Test (Road Test)
*School Busses $15.00
*Other Commercial Vehicles $20.00
** This is the fee if the test is given by DMV. Third-party tester fees may be higher.
Commercial Drivers License $64.00
The fee for a commercial drivers license (CDL) is $64 for an eight year license. The $64 fee includes any endorsements added at the time of original CDL application. A CDL may be “upgraded” later to add authorization to drive additional classes or types of vehicles for $5 for each endorsement. When the license upgrade requires a skills test, a skills test fee will be charged.
Special Notes
-A CDL must be renewed every 8 years. Extensions of the 8 year period (temporary licenses, driving receipts, etc.) are not permitted. A valid CDL is necessary at all time.
-If you move (change address), you must apply for a duplicate CDL (with your new address) within 10 days of moving. Apply at any DMV Service Center.
-Any vehicle considered illegal for highway use, or for use on a skills test route, will not be allowed for skills test purposes.
Legal Size
The following is general information. For further information on size (and weight) contact your State Patrol Headquarters.
In general, size limits in Wisconsin are:
Lenght-single vehicle and load, 40'
Lenght-combination of 2 vehicles and load, 65'
Width-vehicle and load, 8'6"
Height-vehicle and load, 13'6"
Load Extensions
There are a number of exceptions which apply to farm machinery, vehicles involved in towing operations, and vehicles carrying certain types of loads.
One notable exception for lenght involves cranes or booms that are part of a hauled vehicle.
The load cannot extend beyond the left fender line, but it can extend up to 6" beyond the right fender line and up to 3" beyond the front bumper. Loads extending more than 4' beyond the rear of the vehicle must have a red flag during daylight hours and a red lamp during hours of darkness attatched to the end of the load. Some vehicles can exceed lenght limitations as follows:
1. 48' for a semitrailer or trailer operating as part of a two vehicle combination.
2. 53' for a semitrailer operating on the interstate system or designated routes, if distance from center of kingpin to center of kingpin to center of rear axle(s) is not more than 43'.
3. 28'6" for semitrailer or trailer operating as part of a double-bottom.
4. 66' plus an additional overhang of 4' to the front of the vehicle and 5' to the rear for an automobile haulaway.
Special Permits
In order to move vehicles exceeding these size, weight, and load extension dimmensions, a special permit is required. Call (608) 266-7320 for information on these moves.
Wisconsin CDL Disqualifications
Wisconsin CDL Serious Traffic Violations
Safety First!
Jayson Z
Section 2: Driving Safely
Section 2: Driving Safely
This Section Covers
• Vehicle Inspection
• Vehicle Control
• Shifting Gears
• Seeing
• Communicating
• Speed & Space Management
• Night Driving
• Winter Driving
• Mountain Driving
• Emergencies
• Staying Alert
This section contains knowledge and safe driving information that all commercial drivers should know. You must pass a test on this information to get a CDL.
This section does NOT have specific information on air brakes, combination vehicles, doubles, or passenger vehicles. You must read other sections of this manual to learn about them.
This section does not have basic information on hazardous materials (HazMat) that all drivers should know. If you need a HazMat endorsement, you should study Section 9 in Volume 2.
Safety First!
Jayson Z
This Section Covers
• Vehicle Inspection
• Vehicle Control
• Shifting Gears
• Seeing
• Communicating
• Speed & Space Management
• Night Driving
• Winter Driving
• Mountain Driving
• Emergencies
• Staying Alert
This section contains knowledge and safe driving information that all commercial drivers should know. You must pass a test on this information to get a CDL.
This section does NOT have specific information on air brakes, combination vehicles, doubles, or passenger vehicles. You must read other sections of this manual to learn about them.
This section does not have basic information on hazardous materials (HazMat) that all drivers should know. If you need a HazMat endorsement, you should study Section 9 in Volume 2.
Safety First!
Jayson Z
2.1 Vehicle Inspection
2.1 Vehicle Inspection
Safety is the most important reason you inspect your vehicle. Safety for yourself and for other road users.
Why Inspect?
A vehicle defect found during an inspection could save you problems later. You could have a breakdown on the road that will cost time and dollars, or even worse, a crash caused by the defect.
Federal and state laws require that drivers inspect their vehicles. Federal and state inspectors also may inspect your vehicles. If they judge the vehicle to be unsafe, they will put it “out of service” until it is fixed.
Types of Vehicle Inspection
Pre-trip Inspection. A pre-trip inspection will help you find problems that could cause a crash or breakdown.
During a Trip. For safety you should:
• Watch gauges for signs of trouble
• Use your senses to check for problems (look, listen, smell, feel)
• Check critical items when you stop:
-Tires, wheels and rims
-Brakes
-Lights and reflectors
-Brake and electrical connections to trailer
-Trailer coupling devices
-Cargo securement devices
After-Trip Inspection and Report. You should do an after-trip inspection at the end of the trip, day, or tour of duty on each vehicle you operated. It may include filling out a vehicle condition report listing any problems you find. The inspection report helps the motor carrier know when the vehicle needs repairs.
What to Look For
Tire Problems
• Too much or too little air pressure.
• Bad wear. You need at least 4/32 inch tread depth in every major groove on front tires. You need 2/32 inch on other tires. No fabric should show through the tread or sidewall.
• Cuts or other damage
• Tread separation
• Dual tires that come in contact with each other or parts of the vehicle
• Mismatched sizes
• Radial and bias-ply tires used together
• Cut or cracked valve stems
• Regrooved, recapped, or retreaded tires on the front wheels of a bus. These are prohibited.
Wheel and Rim Problems
• Damaged rims
• Rust around lug nuts may mean the nuts are loose-check tightness. After a tire has been changed, stop a short while later and re-check tightness of nuts
• Missing clamps, spacers, studs, or lugs means danger
• Mismatched, bent or cracked lock rings are dangerous
• Wheels or rims that have had welding repairs are not safe
Bad Brake Drums or Shoes
• Cracked drums
• Shoe or pads with oil, grease, or brake fluid on them
• Shoes or pads worn dangerously thin, missing, or broken
Steering System Defects (See Figure 2-1)
• Missing nuts, bolts, cotter keys, or other parts
• Bent, loose, or broken parts, such as steering column, steering gear box, or tie rods.
• If power steering equipped-hoses, pumps, and fluid level, check for leaks
• Steering wheel play or more than 10 degrees (approximately 2 inches movement at the rim of 20-inch steering wheel) can make it hard to steer.
Suspension System Defects. The suspension system holds up the vehicle and its load. It keeps the axles in place. Therefore, broken suspension parts can be extremely dangerous. Look for:
• Spring hangers (Figure 2-2) that allow movement of axle from proper position
• Cracked or broken spring hangers
• Missing or broken leaves in any leaf spring. If one fourth or more are missing, it will put the vehicle “out of service” but any defect could be dangerous 9Figure 2-3)
• Broken leaves in a multi-leaf spring or leaves that have shifted so they might hit a tire or other part
• Leaking shock absorbers
• Torque rod or arm, u-bolts, spring hangers, or other axle positioning parts that are cracked, damaged, or missing (Figure 2-2)
• Air suspension systems that are damaged and/or leaking (Figure 2-4)
• Any loose, cracked, broken, or missing frame members
Air Suspension Parts
Exhaust System Defects. A broken exhaust system can let poisonous carbon monoxide fumes into the cab or sleeper berth. Look for:
• Loose, broken, or missing exhaust pipes, mufflers, tailpipes, or vertical stacks
• Loose, broken, or missing mounting brackets, clamps, bolts, or nuts
• Exhaust system parts rubbing against fuel system parts, tires, or moving parts of vehicle
• Exhaust system parts that are leaking
Emergency Equipment. Vehicles must be equipped with emergency equipment. Look for:
• Fire extinguisher(s)
• Spare electrical fuses (unless equipped with circuit breakers)
• Warning devices for parked vehicles (for example, three reflective warning triangles)
Cargo (Trucks). You must make sure the truck is not overloaded and the cargo is balanced and secured before each trip. If the cargo contains hazardous materials, you must inspect for proper papers and placarding.
CDL Pre-trip Vehicle Inspection Test
In order to obtain a CDL you will be required to pass a pre-trip vehicle inspection test. You will be tested to see if you know whether your vehicle is safe to drive. You will be asked to do a pre-trip inspection of you vehicle and explain to the examiner what you would inspect and why. Section 10 of this manual tells you what to inspect and how to inspect it. The guides shown in Section 10 may be used as a memory aid when taking your test.
A Seven-Step Inspection Method
Method of Inspection. You should do a pre-trip inspection the same way each time so you will learn all the steps and be less likely to forget something. The following seven-step method should be useful.
1: Vehicle Overview
Approaching the vehicle. Notice general condition. Look for damage or vehicle leaning to one side. Look under the vehicle for fresh oil, coolant, grease, or fuel leaks. Check the area around the vehicle for hazards to vehicle movement (people, other vehicles, objects, low hanging wires, limbs, etc.)
Review last vehicle inspection report. Drivers may have to make a vehicle inspection report in writing each day. The motor carrier must repair any items in the report that affects each day. The motor carrier must repair any items in the report that affects safety and certify on the report that repairs were made or were unnecessary. You must sign the report only if defects were noted and certified to be repaired or not needed to be repaired.
2: Check Engine Compartment
Check that the parking brakes are on and/or wheels chocked. You may have to raise the hood, tilt the cab (secure loose things so they don’t fall and brake something), or open the engine compartment door.
Check the following:
• Engine oil level
• Coolant level in radiator; condition of hoses
• Power steering fluid level; hose condition (if so equipped).
• Windshield washer fluid level
• Battery fluid level, connections and tie downs (battery may be located elsewhere).
• Automatic transmission fluid level (may require engine to be running)
• Check belts for tightness and excessive wear (alternator, water pump, air compressor)-learn how much “give” the belts should have when adjusted right, and check each one
• Leaks in the engine compartment (fuel, coolant, oil, power steering fluid, hydraulic fluid, battery fluid)
• Cracked, worn electrical wiring insulation
Lower and secure hood, cab, or engine compartment door.
3: Start Engine and Inspect Inside the Cab
Get in and Start Engine
• Make sure parking brake is on
• Put gearshift in neutral and depress the clutch pedal 9or “park” if automatic)
• Start engine; listen for unusual noises
• Slowly release the clutch pedal
Look at the Gauges
• Oil pressure. Should come up to normal within seconds after engine is started
• Ammeter and/or voltmeter. Should be in normal range(s)
• Coolant temperature. Should begin gradual rise to normal operating range
• Engine oil temperature. Should begin gradual rise to normal operating range
• Warning lights and buzzers. Oil, coolant, charging circuit warning lights should go out right away
Check Condition of Controls. Check all of the following for looseness, sticking, damage, or improper setting:
• Steering wheel
• Clutch
• Accelerator (“gas pedal”)
• Brake controls
-Service (Foot) brake
-Trailer brake (If vehicle has one)
-Parking brake
-Retarder controls (if vehicle has them)
• Transmission controls
• Inter axle differential lock (if vehicle has one)
• Horn(s)
• Windshield wiper/washer
• Lights
-Headlights
-Dimmer switch
-Turn signal
-4-way flashers
-Clearance, identification, marker light switche(s)
Check mirrors and Windshield. Inspect mirrors and windshield for cracks, dirt, illegal stickers, or other obstructions to seeing. Clean and adjust as necessary.
Check Emergency Equipment
• Check for safety equipment:
-Spare electrical fuses (unless vehicle has circuit breakers)
-Three red reflective triangles
-Properly charged and rated fire extinguisher
• Check for optional items such as:
-Tire chains (where winter conditions require them)
-Tire changing equipment
-List of emergency phone numbers
-Accident reporting kit (packet)
4: Turn Off Engine and Check Lights
Make sure the parking brake is set, turn off the engine, and take the key with you. Turn on headlights (low beams) and four-way flashers, and get out.
5: Do Walk-around Inspection
• Go to front of vehicle and check that low beams are on and both of the four-way flashers are working
• Push dimmer switch and check that high beams work
• Turn off headlights and four-way, hazard warning flashers
• Turn on parking, clearance, side-marker and identification lights
• Turn on right turn signal, and start walk-around inspection
General
• Walk around and inspect
• Clean all lights, reflectors and glass as you go along
Left Front Side
• Driver’s door glass should be clean
• Door latches or locks work properly
• Left front wheel
-Condition of wheel and rim-missing, bent, broken studs, clamps, lugs, any signs of misalignment
-Condition of tires-properly inflated, valve stem and cap OK, no serious cuts, bulges, thread wear and thread dept
Use wrench to test rust-streaked lug nuts, indicating looseness
-Hub oil level OK, no leaks
• Left front suspension
-Condition of spring, spring hangers, shackles, u-bolts
-Shock absorbers condition
-Condition of air suspension components (if equipped)
• Left front brake
-Condition of brake drum or rotor
-Condition of hoses
-Condition of brake shoes or pads
-Condition of slack adjustor and brake chamber (if airbrake equipped)
Front
• Condition of front axle
• Condition of steering system
-No loose, worn, bent, damaged or missing parts
-Must grab steering mechanism to test for looseness
• Condition of windshield
-Check for damage and clean if dirty
-Check windshield wiper arms for proper spring tension
Check wiper blades for damage, “stiff” rubber, and securement
• Lights and reflectors
-Parking, clearance and identification lights clean, operating, and proper color (amber at front)
-Reflectors clean and proper color (amber at front)
• Right front turn signal clean, operating, and proper color (amber or white on signals facing forward)
Right Side
• Right front: check all items as done on left front
• Primary and secondary safety cab locks engaged (if cab-over-engine design)
• Right fuel tank(s)
-Securely mounted, not damaged or leaking
-Fuel crossover line secure
-Tank(s) contain enough fuel
-Cap(s) on and secure
• Condition of visible parts
-Rear of engine-not leaking
-Transmission-not leaking
-Exhaust system-secure, not leaking, not touching wires, fuel, or air lines
-Frame and cross members-no bends, cracks
-Air lines and electrical wiring-secured against snagging, rubbing, wearing
-Spare tire carrier or rack not damaged (if so equipped)
-Spare tire and/or wheel securely mounted in rack
Spare tire and wheel adequate (proper size, properly inflated)
• Cargo securement (trucks)
-Cargo properly blocked, braced, tied, chained, etc
-Header board adequate, secure (if required)
-Side boards, stakes strong enough, free of damage, properly set in place (if so equipped)
-Canvas or tarp (if required) properly secured to prevent tearing, billowing, or blocking of mirrors
-If oversized, all required signs (flags, laps, and reflectors) must be safely and properly mounted and all required permits in driver’s possession
-Curbside cargo compartment doors securely closed, latched/locked, required security seals in place
Right Rear
• Condition of wheels and rims-no missing, bent, broken spacers, studs, clamps, lugs
• Condition of tires-properly inflated, valve stems and caps OK, no serious cuts, bulges, tread wear, tread depth, tires not rubbing each other and nothing stuck between them
• Tires same type, e.g., not mixed radial and bias types
• Tires evenly matched (same sizes)
• Wheel bearing/seals not leaking
• Suspension
-Condition of spring(s), spring hangers, shackles, and U-bolts
-Axle secure
Powered axle(s) not leaking lube (gear oil)
-Condition of torque rod arms, bushings
-Condition of shock absorber(s)
-If retractable axle equipped, check condition of lift mechanism. If air powered, check for leaks
-Condition of air suspension components (if equipped)
• Brakes
-Brake adjustment
-Condition of brake drum(s) or rotor
-Condition of hoses-look for any wear due to rubbing
-Condition of brake shoes or pads
-Condition of slack adjusters and brake chamber (if equipped)
• Lights and reflectors
-Side-marker lights clean, operating, and proper color (red at rear, others amber)
-Side-marker reflectors clean and proper color (red at rear, others amber)
Rear
• Lights and reflectors
-Rear clearance and identification lights clean, operating, and proper color (red at rear)
-Reflectors clean and proper color (red at rear)
-Taillights clean, operating, and proper color (red at rear)
-Right rear turn signal operating, and proper color (red, yellow, or amber at rear)
• License plate(s) present, clean, and secured
• Splash guards present, not damaged, properly fastened, not dragging on ground or rubbing tires
• Cargo secure (trucks)
-Cargo properly blocked, braced, tied, chained, etc
-Tailboards up and properly secured
-End gates free of damage, properly secured in stake sockets
-Canvas or tarp (if required) properly secured to prevent tearing or billowing to block either the rearview mirrors or to cover rear lights
If over-length, or aver-width, make sure all signs and/or additional lights/flags are safely and properly mounted and all required permits are in driver’s possession
-If over-length, or over-width, make sure all signs and/or additional lights/flags are safely and properly mounted and all required permits are in driver’s possession
-Rear doors securely closed, latched/locked
Left Side
• Check all items as done on right side, plus
-Battery(s) (if not mounted in engine compartment)
-Battery(s) box securely mounted to vehicle
-Box has secure cover
-Battery(s) secured against movement
-Battery(s) not broken or leaking
-Fluid in battery(s) at proper level (except maintenance-free type)
-Cell caps present and securely tightened (except maintenance-free type)
-Vents in cell caps free of foreign material (except maintenance-free type)
6: Check Signal Lights
Get In and Turn Off Lights
• Turn off all lights
• Turn on stop lights (apply trailer hand brake or have a helper put on the brake pedal)
• Turn on left turn signal lights
Get Out and Check Lights• Left front turn signal light clean, operating and proper color (amber or white on signals facing the front)
• Left rear turn signal light and both stop lights clean, operating, and proper color (red, yellow, or amber)
Get In Vehicle
• Turn off lights not needed for driving
• Check for all required papers, trip manifests, permits, etc
• Secure all loose articles in cab (they might interfere with operation of the controls or hit you in crash)
• Start the engine
7: Start the Engine and Check Brake System
Test For Hydraulic Leaks. If the vehicle has hydraulic brakes, apply firm pressure to the pedal and hold for five seconds. The pedal should not move. If it does, there may be a leak or other problem. Get if fixed before driving.
If the vehicle has air brakes, do the checks described in Sections 5 and 6 of this manual.
Test Parking Brake
• Fasten seat belt
• Allow vehicle to move forward slowly
• Apply parking brake
• If it doesn’t stop vehicle, it is faulty; get it fixed
Test Service (Foot) Brake Stopping Action
• Go about five miles per hour
• Push brake pedal firmly
• “Pulling” to one side or the other can mean brake trouble
• Any unusual brake pedal “feel” or delayed stopping action can mean trouble
This completes the pre-trip inspection
If you find anything unsafe during the pre-trip inspection, get if fixed. Federal and state laws forbid operating an unsafe vehicle.
Inspection During a Trip
Check Vehicle Operation Regularly
You should check:
• Instruments
• Air pressure gauge (if you have air brakes)
• Temperature gauges
• Pressure gauges
• Ammeter/voltmeter
• Mirrors
• Tires
• Cargo, cargo covers
If you see, hear, smell, or feel anything that might mean trouble, check it out
Safety Inspection
• Drivers of trucks and truck tractors when transporting cargo must inspect the securement of the cargo within the first 25 miles of a trip and every 150 miles or every 3 hours (whichever comes first) afterward.
You may have to make a written report each day on the condition of the vehicle(s) you drove. Report anything affecting safety or possibly leading to mechanical breakdown.
After-trip Inspection & Report
The vehicle inspection report tells the motor carrier about problems that may need fixing. Keep a copy of your report in the vehicle for one day. That way, the next driver can learn about any problems you have found.
Safety First!
Jayson Z
Safety is the most important reason you inspect your vehicle. Safety for yourself and for other road users.
Why Inspect?
A vehicle defect found during an inspection could save you problems later. You could have a breakdown on the road that will cost time and dollars, or even worse, a crash caused by the defect.
Federal and state laws require that drivers inspect their vehicles. Federal and state inspectors also may inspect your vehicles. If they judge the vehicle to be unsafe, they will put it “out of service” until it is fixed.
Types of Vehicle Inspection
Pre-trip Inspection. A pre-trip inspection will help you find problems that could cause a crash or breakdown.
During a Trip. For safety you should:
• Watch gauges for signs of trouble
• Use your senses to check for problems (look, listen, smell, feel)
• Check critical items when you stop:
-Tires, wheels and rims
-Brakes
-Lights and reflectors
-Brake and electrical connections to trailer
-Trailer coupling devices
-Cargo securement devices
After-Trip Inspection and Report. You should do an after-trip inspection at the end of the trip, day, or tour of duty on each vehicle you operated. It may include filling out a vehicle condition report listing any problems you find. The inspection report helps the motor carrier know when the vehicle needs repairs.
What to Look For
Tire Problems
• Too much or too little air pressure.
• Bad wear. You need at least 4/32 inch tread depth in every major groove on front tires. You need 2/32 inch on other tires. No fabric should show through the tread or sidewall.
• Cuts or other damage
• Tread separation
• Dual tires that come in contact with each other or parts of the vehicle
• Mismatched sizes
• Radial and bias-ply tires used together
• Cut or cracked valve stems
• Regrooved, recapped, or retreaded tires on the front wheels of a bus. These are prohibited.
Wheel and Rim Problems
• Damaged rims
• Rust around lug nuts may mean the nuts are loose-check tightness. After a tire has been changed, stop a short while later and re-check tightness of nuts
• Missing clamps, spacers, studs, or lugs means danger
• Mismatched, bent or cracked lock rings are dangerous
• Wheels or rims that have had welding repairs are not safe
Bad Brake Drums or Shoes
• Cracked drums
• Shoe or pads with oil, grease, or brake fluid on them
• Shoes or pads worn dangerously thin, missing, or broken
Steering System Defects (See Figure 2-1)
• Missing nuts, bolts, cotter keys, or other parts
• Bent, loose, or broken parts, such as steering column, steering gear box, or tie rods.
• If power steering equipped-hoses, pumps, and fluid level, check for leaks
• Steering wheel play or more than 10 degrees (approximately 2 inches movement at the rim of 20-inch steering wheel) can make it hard to steer.
Suspension System Defects. The suspension system holds up the vehicle and its load. It keeps the axles in place. Therefore, broken suspension parts can be extremely dangerous. Look for:
• Spring hangers (Figure 2-2) that allow movement of axle from proper position
• Cracked or broken spring hangers
• Missing or broken leaves in any leaf spring. If one fourth or more are missing, it will put the vehicle “out of service” but any defect could be dangerous 9Figure 2-3)
• Broken leaves in a multi-leaf spring or leaves that have shifted so they might hit a tire or other part
• Leaking shock absorbers
• Torque rod or arm, u-bolts, spring hangers, or other axle positioning parts that are cracked, damaged, or missing (Figure 2-2)
• Air suspension systems that are damaged and/or leaking (Figure 2-4)
• Any loose, cracked, broken, or missing frame members
Air Suspension Parts
Exhaust System Defects. A broken exhaust system can let poisonous carbon monoxide fumes into the cab or sleeper berth. Look for:
• Loose, broken, or missing exhaust pipes, mufflers, tailpipes, or vertical stacks
• Loose, broken, or missing mounting brackets, clamps, bolts, or nuts
• Exhaust system parts rubbing against fuel system parts, tires, or moving parts of vehicle
• Exhaust system parts that are leaking
Emergency Equipment. Vehicles must be equipped with emergency equipment. Look for:
• Fire extinguisher(s)
• Spare electrical fuses (unless equipped with circuit breakers)
• Warning devices for parked vehicles (for example, three reflective warning triangles)
Cargo (Trucks). You must make sure the truck is not overloaded and the cargo is balanced and secured before each trip. If the cargo contains hazardous materials, you must inspect for proper papers and placarding.
CDL Pre-trip Vehicle Inspection Test
In order to obtain a CDL you will be required to pass a pre-trip vehicle inspection test. You will be tested to see if you know whether your vehicle is safe to drive. You will be asked to do a pre-trip inspection of you vehicle and explain to the examiner what you would inspect and why. Section 10 of this manual tells you what to inspect and how to inspect it. The guides shown in Section 10 may be used as a memory aid when taking your test.
A Seven-Step Inspection Method
Method of Inspection. You should do a pre-trip inspection the same way each time so you will learn all the steps and be less likely to forget something. The following seven-step method should be useful.
1: Vehicle Overview
Approaching the vehicle. Notice general condition. Look for damage or vehicle leaning to one side. Look under the vehicle for fresh oil, coolant, grease, or fuel leaks. Check the area around the vehicle for hazards to vehicle movement (people, other vehicles, objects, low hanging wires, limbs, etc.)
Review last vehicle inspection report. Drivers may have to make a vehicle inspection report in writing each day. The motor carrier must repair any items in the report that affects each day. The motor carrier must repair any items in the report that affects safety and certify on the report that repairs were made or were unnecessary. You must sign the report only if defects were noted and certified to be repaired or not needed to be repaired.
2: Check Engine Compartment
Check that the parking brakes are on and/or wheels chocked. You may have to raise the hood, tilt the cab (secure loose things so they don’t fall and brake something), or open the engine compartment door.
Check the following:
• Engine oil level
• Coolant level in radiator; condition of hoses
• Power steering fluid level; hose condition (if so equipped).
• Windshield washer fluid level
• Battery fluid level, connections and tie downs (battery may be located elsewhere).
• Automatic transmission fluid level (may require engine to be running)
• Check belts for tightness and excessive wear (alternator, water pump, air compressor)-learn how much “give” the belts should have when adjusted right, and check each one
• Leaks in the engine compartment (fuel, coolant, oil, power steering fluid, hydraulic fluid, battery fluid)
• Cracked, worn electrical wiring insulation
Lower and secure hood, cab, or engine compartment door.
3: Start Engine and Inspect Inside the Cab
Get in and Start Engine
• Make sure parking brake is on
• Put gearshift in neutral and depress the clutch pedal 9or “park” if automatic)
• Start engine; listen for unusual noises
• Slowly release the clutch pedal
Look at the Gauges
• Oil pressure. Should come up to normal within seconds after engine is started
• Ammeter and/or voltmeter. Should be in normal range(s)
• Coolant temperature. Should begin gradual rise to normal operating range
• Engine oil temperature. Should begin gradual rise to normal operating range
• Warning lights and buzzers. Oil, coolant, charging circuit warning lights should go out right away
Check Condition of Controls. Check all of the following for looseness, sticking, damage, or improper setting:
• Steering wheel
• Clutch
• Accelerator (“gas pedal”)
• Brake controls
-Service (Foot) brake
-Trailer brake (If vehicle has one)
-Parking brake
-Retarder controls (if vehicle has them)
• Transmission controls
• Inter axle differential lock (if vehicle has one)
• Horn(s)
• Windshield wiper/washer
• Lights
-Headlights
-Dimmer switch
-Turn signal
-4-way flashers
-Clearance, identification, marker light switche(s)
Check mirrors and Windshield. Inspect mirrors and windshield for cracks, dirt, illegal stickers, or other obstructions to seeing. Clean and adjust as necessary.
Check Emergency Equipment
• Check for safety equipment:
-Spare electrical fuses (unless vehicle has circuit breakers)
-Three red reflective triangles
-Properly charged and rated fire extinguisher
• Check for optional items such as:
-Tire chains (where winter conditions require them)
-Tire changing equipment
-List of emergency phone numbers
-Accident reporting kit (packet)
4: Turn Off Engine and Check Lights
Make sure the parking brake is set, turn off the engine, and take the key with you. Turn on headlights (low beams) and four-way flashers, and get out.
5: Do Walk-around Inspection
• Go to front of vehicle and check that low beams are on and both of the four-way flashers are working
• Push dimmer switch and check that high beams work
• Turn off headlights and four-way, hazard warning flashers
• Turn on parking, clearance, side-marker and identification lights
• Turn on right turn signal, and start walk-around inspection
General
• Walk around and inspect
• Clean all lights, reflectors and glass as you go along
Left Front Side
• Driver’s door glass should be clean
• Door latches or locks work properly
• Left front wheel
-Condition of wheel and rim-missing, bent, broken studs, clamps, lugs, any signs of misalignment
-Condition of tires-properly inflated, valve stem and cap OK, no serious cuts, bulges, thread wear and thread dept
Use wrench to test rust-streaked lug nuts, indicating looseness
-Hub oil level OK, no leaks
• Left front suspension
-Condition of spring, spring hangers, shackles, u-bolts
-Shock absorbers condition
-Condition of air suspension components (if equipped)
• Left front brake
-Condition of brake drum or rotor
-Condition of hoses
-Condition of brake shoes or pads
-Condition of slack adjustor and brake chamber (if airbrake equipped)
Front
• Condition of front axle
• Condition of steering system
-No loose, worn, bent, damaged or missing parts
-Must grab steering mechanism to test for looseness
• Condition of windshield
-Check for damage and clean if dirty
-Check windshield wiper arms for proper spring tension
Check wiper blades for damage, “stiff” rubber, and securement
• Lights and reflectors
-Parking, clearance and identification lights clean, operating, and proper color (amber at front)
-Reflectors clean and proper color (amber at front)
• Right front turn signal clean, operating, and proper color (amber or white on signals facing forward)
Right Side
• Right front: check all items as done on left front
• Primary and secondary safety cab locks engaged (if cab-over-engine design)
• Right fuel tank(s)
-Securely mounted, not damaged or leaking
-Fuel crossover line secure
-Tank(s) contain enough fuel
-Cap(s) on and secure
• Condition of visible parts
-Rear of engine-not leaking
-Transmission-not leaking
-Exhaust system-secure, not leaking, not touching wires, fuel, or air lines
-Frame and cross members-no bends, cracks
-Air lines and electrical wiring-secured against snagging, rubbing, wearing
-Spare tire carrier or rack not damaged (if so equipped)
-Spare tire and/or wheel securely mounted in rack
Spare tire and wheel adequate (proper size, properly inflated)
• Cargo securement (trucks)
-Cargo properly blocked, braced, tied, chained, etc
-Header board adequate, secure (if required)
-Side boards, stakes strong enough, free of damage, properly set in place (if so equipped)
-Canvas or tarp (if required) properly secured to prevent tearing, billowing, or blocking of mirrors
-If oversized, all required signs (flags, laps, and reflectors) must be safely and properly mounted and all required permits in driver’s possession
-Curbside cargo compartment doors securely closed, latched/locked, required security seals in place
Right Rear
• Condition of wheels and rims-no missing, bent, broken spacers, studs, clamps, lugs
• Condition of tires-properly inflated, valve stems and caps OK, no serious cuts, bulges, tread wear, tread depth, tires not rubbing each other and nothing stuck between them
• Tires same type, e.g., not mixed radial and bias types
• Tires evenly matched (same sizes)
• Wheel bearing/seals not leaking
• Suspension
-Condition of spring(s), spring hangers, shackles, and U-bolts
-Axle secure
Powered axle(s) not leaking lube (gear oil)
-Condition of torque rod arms, bushings
-Condition of shock absorber(s)
-If retractable axle equipped, check condition of lift mechanism. If air powered, check for leaks
-Condition of air suspension components (if equipped)
• Brakes
-Brake adjustment
-Condition of brake drum(s) or rotor
-Condition of hoses-look for any wear due to rubbing
-Condition of brake shoes or pads
-Condition of slack adjusters and brake chamber (if equipped)
• Lights and reflectors
-Side-marker lights clean, operating, and proper color (red at rear, others amber)
-Side-marker reflectors clean and proper color (red at rear, others amber)
Rear
• Lights and reflectors
-Rear clearance and identification lights clean, operating, and proper color (red at rear)
-Reflectors clean and proper color (red at rear)
-Taillights clean, operating, and proper color (red at rear)
-Right rear turn signal operating, and proper color (red, yellow, or amber at rear)
• License plate(s) present, clean, and secured
• Splash guards present, not damaged, properly fastened, not dragging on ground or rubbing tires
• Cargo secure (trucks)
-Cargo properly blocked, braced, tied, chained, etc
-Tailboards up and properly secured
-End gates free of damage, properly secured in stake sockets
-Canvas or tarp (if required) properly secured to prevent tearing or billowing to block either the rearview mirrors or to cover rear lights
If over-length, or aver-width, make sure all signs and/or additional lights/flags are safely and properly mounted and all required permits are in driver’s possession
-If over-length, or over-width, make sure all signs and/or additional lights/flags are safely and properly mounted and all required permits are in driver’s possession
-Rear doors securely closed, latched/locked
Left Side
• Check all items as done on right side, plus
-Battery(s) (if not mounted in engine compartment)
-Battery(s) box securely mounted to vehicle
-Box has secure cover
-Battery(s) secured against movement
-Battery(s) not broken or leaking
-Fluid in battery(s) at proper level (except maintenance-free type)
-Cell caps present and securely tightened (except maintenance-free type)
-Vents in cell caps free of foreign material (except maintenance-free type)
6: Check Signal Lights
Get In and Turn Off Lights
• Turn off all lights
• Turn on stop lights (apply trailer hand brake or have a helper put on the brake pedal)
• Turn on left turn signal lights
Get Out and Check Lights• Left front turn signal light clean, operating and proper color (amber or white on signals facing the front)
• Left rear turn signal light and both stop lights clean, operating, and proper color (red, yellow, or amber)
Get In Vehicle
• Turn off lights not needed for driving
• Check for all required papers, trip manifests, permits, etc
• Secure all loose articles in cab (they might interfere with operation of the controls or hit you in crash)
• Start the engine
7: Start the Engine and Check Brake System
Test For Hydraulic Leaks. If the vehicle has hydraulic brakes, apply firm pressure to the pedal and hold for five seconds. The pedal should not move. If it does, there may be a leak or other problem. Get if fixed before driving.
If the vehicle has air brakes, do the checks described in Sections 5 and 6 of this manual.
Test Parking Brake
• Fasten seat belt
• Allow vehicle to move forward slowly
• Apply parking brake
• If it doesn’t stop vehicle, it is faulty; get it fixed
Test Service (Foot) Brake Stopping Action
• Go about five miles per hour
• Push brake pedal firmly
• “Pulling” to one side or the other can mean brake trouble
• Any unusual brake pedal “feel” or delayed stopping action can mean trouble
This completes the pre-trip inspection
If you find anything unsafe during the pre-trip inspection, get if fixed. Federal and state laws forbid operating an unsafe vehicle.
Inspection During a Trip
Check Vehicle Operation Regularly
You should check:
• Instruments
• Air pressure gauge (if you have air brakes)
• Temperature gauges
• Pressure gauges
• Ammeter/voltmeter
• Mirrors
• Tires
• Cargo, cargo covers
If you see, hear, smell, or feel anything that might mean trouble, check it out
Safety Inspection
• Drivers of trucks and truck tractors when transporting cargo must inspect the securement of the cargo within the first 25 miles of a trip and every 150 miles or every 3 hours (whichever comes first) afterward.
You may have to make a written report each day on the condition of the vehicle(s) you drove. Report anything affecting safety or possibly leading to mechanical breakdown.
After-trip Inspection & Report
The vehicle inspection report tells the motor carrier about problems that may need fixing. Keep a copy of your report in the vehicle for one day. That way, the next driver can learn about any problems you have found.
Safety First!
Jayson Z
2.2 Basic Control of Your Vehicle
2.2 Basic Control of Your Vehicle
To drive a vehicle safely, you must be able to control its speed and direction. Safe operation of a commercial vehicle required skill in:
• Accelerating
• Steering
• Shifting gears
• Braking
Fasten your seatbelt when on the road. Apply the parking brake when you leave your vehicle
Accelerating
Don’t roll back when you start. You may hit someone behind you. Partly engage the clutch before you take your right foot off the brake. Put on the parking brake whenever necessary to keep from rolling back. Release the parking brake only when you have applied enough engine power to keep from rolling back. On a tractor-trailer equipped with a trailer brake hand valve, the hand valve can be applied to keep from rolling back.
Speed up smoothly and gradually so the vehicle does not jerk. Rough acceleration can cause mechanical damage. When pulling a trailer, rough acceleration can damage the coupling device.
Speed up very gradually when traction is poor, as in rain or snow. If you use too much power, the drive wheels may spin. You could lose control. If the drive wheels begin to spin, take your foot off the accelerator.
Steering
Hold the Wheel Properly. Hold the steering wheel firmly with both hands. Your hands should be on opposite sides of the wheel. If you hit a curb or a pothole (chuckhole), the wheel could pull away from your hands unless you have a firm hold.
Backing Safely
Because you cannot see everything behind your vehicle, backing is always dangerous. Avoid backing whenever you can. When you park, try to park so you will be able to pull forward when you leave. When you have to back, here are a few simple safety rules:
• Look at your path
• Back slowly using the 4-way hazard lights
• Back and turn toward the driver’s side whenever possible
• Use a helper whenever possible
• Get out and look
These rules are discussed in more detail below.
Look at Your Path. Look at your line of travel before you begin. Get out and walk around the vehicle. Check your clearance to the sides and overhead in and near the path your vehicle will take.
Back Slowly. Activate 4-way hazard lights before backing. Always back as slowly as possible. Use the lowest reverse gear. That way you can more easily correct any steering errors. You also can stop quickly if necessary.
Back and Turn Toward the Driver’s Side. Back to the driver’s side so you can see better. Backing toward the right side is very dangerous because you can’t see as well. If you back and turn toward the driver’s side, you can watch the rear of your vehicle by looking out the side window. Use driver-side backing-even if it means going around the block to put you r vehicle in this position. The added safety is worth it.
Use a Helper. Use a helper when you can. There are blind spots you can’t see. That’s why helper is important.
The helper should stand near the back of your vehicle where you can see the helper. Before you begin backing, work out a set of hand signals that you both understand. Agree on a signal for “stop.”
Backing with a Trailer
Backing with a Trailer. When backing a car, straight truck, or bus, you turn the top of the steering wheel toward the direction you want to go. When backing a trailer, you turn the steering wheel in the opposite direction. Once the trailer starts to turn, you must turn the wheel the other way to follow the trailer.
Whenever you back with a trailer, try to position you vehicle so you can back in a straight line. If you must back on a curved path, back to the driver’s side so you can see.
Back slowly. This will let you make corrections before you get too far off course.
Use the mirrors. The mirrors will help you see whether the trailer is drifting to one side or the other.
Correct drift immediately. As soon as you see the trailer getting off the proper path, correct it by turning the top of the steering wheel in the direction of the drift.
Pull forward. When backing a trailer, make pull-ups to re-position your vehicle as needed.
G.O.A.L. Get out and look, if you are unsure what is behind you.
Safety First!
Jayson Z
To drive a vehicle safely, you must be able to control its speed and direction. Safe operation of a commercial vehicle required skill in:
• Accelerating
• Steering
• Shifting gears
• Braking
Fasten your seatbelt when on the road. Apply the parking brake when you leave your vehicle
Accelerating
Don’t roll back when you start. You may hit someone behind you. Partly engage the clutch before you take your right foot off the brake. Put on the parking brake whenever necessary to keep from rolling back. Release the parking brake only when you have applied enough engine power to keep from rolling back. On a tractor-trailer equipped with a trailer brake hand valve, the hand valve can be applied to keep from rolling back.
Speed up smoothly and gradually so the vehicle does not jerk. Rough acceleration can cause mechanical damage. When pulling a trailer, rough acceleration can damage the coupling device.
Speed up very gradually when traction is poor, as in rain or snow. If you use too much power, the drive wheels may spin. You could lose control. If the drive wheels begin to spin, take your foot off the accelerator.
Steering
Hold the Wheel Properly. Hold the steering wheel firmly with both hands. Your hands should be on opposite sides of the wheel. If you hit a curb or a pothole (chuckhole), the wheel could pull away from your hands unless you have a firm hold.
Backing Safely
Because you cannot see everything behind your vehicle, backing is always dangerous. Avoid backing whenever you can. When you park, try to park so you will be able to pull forward when you leave. When you have to back, here are a few simple safety rules:
• Look at your path
• Back slowly using the 4-way hazard lights
• Back and turn toward the driver’s side whenever possible
• Use a helper whenever possible
• Get out and look
These rules are discussed in more detail below.
Look at Your Path. Look at your line of travel before you begin. Get out and walk around the vehicle. Check your clearance to the sides and overhead in and near the path your vehicle will take.
Back Slowly. Activate 4-way hazard lights before backing. Always back as slowly as possible. Use the lowest reverse gear. That way you can more easily correct any steering errors. You also can stop quickly if necessary.
Back and Turn Toward the Driver’s Side. Back to the driver’s side so you can see better. Backing toward the right side is very dangerous because you can’t see as well. If you back and turn toward the driver’s side, you can watch the rear of your vehicle by looking out the side window. Use driver-side backing-even if it means going around the block to put you r vehicle in this position. The added safety is worth it.
Use a Helper. Use a helper when you can. There are blind spots you can’t see. That’s why helper is important.
The helper should stand near the back of your vehicle where you can see the helper. Before you begin backing, work out a set of hand signals that you both understand. Agree on a signal for “stop.”
Backing with a Trailer
Backing with a Trailer. When backing a car, straight truck, or bus, you turn the top of the steering wheel toward the direction you want to go. When backing a trailer, you turn the steering wheel in the opposite direction. Once the trailer starts to turn, you must turn the wheel the other way to follow the trailer.
Whenever you back with a trailer, try to position you vehicle so you can back in a straight line. If you must back on a curved path, back to the driver’s side so you can see.
Back slowly. This will let you make corrections before you get too far off course.
Use the mirrors. The mirrors will help you see whether the trailer is drifting to one side or the other.
Correct drift immediately. As soon as you see the trailer getting off the proper path, correct it by turning the top of the steering wheel in the direction of the drift.
Pull forward. When backing a trailer, make pull-ups to re-position your vehicle as needed.
G.O.A.L. Get out and look, if you are unsure what is behind you.
Safety First!
Jayson Z
2.3 Shifting Gears
2.3 Shifting Gears
Correct shifting of gears is important. If you can’t get your vehicle into the right gear while driving, you will have less control.
Manual Transmission
Basic Method for Shifting Up. Most heavy vehicles with manual transmission require double clutching to change gear. This is the basic method:
1. Release accelerator, push in clutch and shift to neutral at the same time.
2. Release clutch
3. Let engine and gears slow down to the RPM required for the next gear (this takes practice)
4. Push in clutch and shift to the higher gear at the same time
5. Release clutch and press accelerator at the same time
Shifting gears using double clutching required practice. If you remain too long in neutral, you may have difficulty putting the vehicle into the next gear. If so, don’t try to force it. Return to neutral, release clutch, increase engine speed to match road speed, and try again.
Knowing When to Shift Up. There are two ways of knowing when to shift:
Use engine speed (RPM). Study the driver’s manual for your vehicle and learn the operating RPM range. Watch your tachometer, and shift up when your engine reaches the top of the range. (Some newer vehicles use “progressive” shifting: the RPM at which you shift becomes higher as you move up in the gears. Find out what’s right for the vehicle you will operate.)
Use road speed (mph). Learn what speed each gear is good for. Then, by using the speedometer, you’ll know when to shift up.
With either method, you may learn to use engine sounds to know when to shift.
Basic Procedures for Shifting Down
1. Release accelerator, push in clutch, and shift to neutral at the same time.
2. Release clutch.
3. Press accelerator, increase engine and gear speed to the RPM required in the lower gear.
4. Push in clutch and shift to lower gear at the same time.
5. Release clutch.
Downshifting, like upshifting, requires knowing when to shift. Use either the tachometer or the speedometer and downshift at the right RPM or road speed.
Special conditions where you should downshift are:
Before starting down a hill. Slow down and shift down to a speed that you can control without using the brakes hard. Otherwise the brakes can overheat and lose their braking power. Downshift before starting down the hill. Make sure you are in a low enough gear. Gear selection should be based on the steepness of the grade, weather, road conditions and your load.
Before entering a curve. Slow down to a safe speed, and downshift to the right gear before entering the curve. This lets you use some power through the curve to help the vehicle be more stable while turning. It also lets you speed up as soon as you are out of the curve.
Multi-Speed Rear Axles and Auxilary Transmission
Multi-speed rear axles and auxiliary transmission are used on many vehicles to provide extra gears. You usually control them by a selector knob or switch on the gearshift lever of the main transmission. There are many different shift patterns. Learn the right way to shift gears in the vehicle you will drive.
Automatic Transmissions
Some vehicles have automatic transmissions. You can select a low range to get greater engine braking when going down grades. The lower ranges prevent the transmission from shifting up beyond the selected gear (unless the governor RPM is exceeded). It is very important to use this braking effect when going down grades.
Retarders
Some vehicles have “retarders.” Retarders help slow a vehicle, reducing the need for using your brakes. They reduce brake wear and give you another way to slow down. There are many types of retarders (exhaust, engine, hydraulic, electric). All retarders can be turned on or off by the driver. On some, the retarding power can be adjusted. When turned “on” retarders apply their braking power (to the drive wheels only) whenever you let up on the accelerator pedal all the way.
Caution. When your drive wheels have poor traction, the retarder may cause them to skid. Therefore, you should turn the retarder off whenever the road is wet, icy, or snow covered.
Safety First!
Jayson Z
Correct shifting of gears is important. If you can’t get your vehicle into the right gear while driving, you will have less control.
Manual Transmission
Basic Method for Shifting Up. Most heavy vehicles with manual transmission require double clutching to change gear. This is the basic method:
1. Release accelerator, push in clutch and shift to neutral at the same time.
2. Release clutch
3. Let engine and gears slow down to the RPM required for the next gear (this takes practice)
4. Push in clutch and shift to the higher gear at the same time
5. Release clutch and press accelerator at the same time
Shifting gears using double clutching required practice. If you remain too long in neutral, you may have difficulty putting the vehicle into the next gear. If so, don’t try to force it. Return to neutral, release clutch, increase engine speed to match road speed, and try again.
Knowing When to Shift Up. There are two ways of knowing when to shift:
Use engine speed (RPM). Study the driver’s manual for your vehicle and learn the operating RPM range. Watch your tachometer, and shift up when your engine reaches the top of the range. (Some newer vehicles use “progressive” shifting: the RPM at which you shift becomes higher as you move up in the gears. Find out what’s right for the vehicle you will operate.)
Use road speed (mph). Learn what speed each gear is good for. Then, by using the speedometer, you’ll know when to shift up.
With either method, you may learn to use engine sounds to know when to shift.
Basic Procedures for Shifting Down
1. Release accelerator, push in clutch, and shift to neutral at the same time.
2. Release clutch.
3. Press accelerator, increase engine and gear speed to the RPM required in the lower gear.
4. Push in clutch and shift to lower gear at the same time.
5. Release clutch.
Downshifting, like upshifting, requires knowing when to shift. Use either the tachometer or the speedometer and downshift at the right RPM or road speed.
Special conditions where you should downshift are:
Before starting down a hill. Slow down and shift down to a speed that you can control without using the brakes hard. Otherwise the brakes can overheat and lose their braking power. Downshift before starting down the hill. Make sure you are in a low enough gear. Gear selection should be based on the steepness of the grade, weather, road conditions and your load.
Before entering a curve. Slow down to a safe speed, and downshift to the right gear before entering the curve. This lets you use some power through the curve to help the vehicle be more stable while turning. It also lets you speed up as soon as you are out of the curve.
Multi-Speed Rear Axles and Auxilary Transmission
Multi-speed rear axles and auxiliary transmission are used on many vehicles to provide extra gears. You usually control them by a selector knob or switch on the gearshift lever of the main transmission. There are many different shift patterns. Learn the right way to shift gears in the vehicle you will drive.
Automatic Transmissions
Some vehicles have automatic transmissions. You can select a low range to get greater engine braking when going down grades. The lower ranges prevent the transmission from shifting up beyond the selected gear (unless the governor RPM is exceeded). It is very important to use this braking effect when going down grades.
Retarders
Some vehicles have “retarders.” Retarders help slow a vehicle, reducing the need for using your brakes. They reduce brake wear and give you another way to slow down. There are many types of retarders (exhaust, engine, hydraulic, electric). All retarders can be turned on or off by the driver. On some, the retarding power can be adjusted. When turned “on” retarders apply their braking power (to the drive wheels only) whenever you let up on the accelerator pedal all the way.
Caution. When your drive wheels have poor traction, the retarder may cause them to skid. Therefore, you should turn the retarder off whenever the road is wet, icy, or snow covered.
Safety First!
Jayson Z
2.4 Seeing
2.4 Seeing
To be a safe driver you need to know what’s going on all around your vehicle. Not looking properly is a major cause of accidents.
Seeing Ahead
All drivers look ahead; but many don’t look far enough ahead.
Importance of Looking Far Enough Ahead. Because stopping or changing lanes can take a lot of distance, knowing what the traffic is doing on all sides of you is very important. You need to look well ahead to make sure you have room to make these moves safely.
How Far Ahead to Look. Most good drivers look 12 to 15 seconds ahead. That means looking ahead the distance you will travel in 12 to 15 seconds. At lower speeds, that’s about one block. At highway speeds it’s about a quarter mile. If you’re not looking that far ahead, you may have to stop too quickly or make quick lane changes. Looking 13 to 15 seconds ahead doesn’t mean not paying attention to things that are closer. Good drivers shift their attention back and forth, near and far.
Look for Traffic. Look for vehicles coming onto the highway, into your lane, or turning. Watch for brake lights from slowing vehicles. By seeing these things far enough ahead, you can change your speed or change lanes if necessary to avoid a problem.
Look for Road Conditions. Look for hills and curves-anything you’ll have to slow or change lanes for. Pay attention to traffic signals and signs. If a light has been green for a long time, it will probably change before you get there. Start slowing down and be ready to stop. Traffic signs may alert you to road conditions where you may have to change speed.
Seeing to the Sides and Rear
It’s important to know what’s going on behind and to the sides. Check your mirrors regularly. Check more often in special situations.
Mirror Adjustment. Mirror adjustment should be checked prior to the start of any trip and can only be checked accurately when the trailer(s) are straight. You should check and adjust each mirror as needed.
Regular Checks. You need to make regular checks of your mirrors to be aware of traffic and to check your vehicle.
Trafffic. Check your mirrors for vehicles on either side and in back of you. In an emergency, you may need to know whether you can make a quick lane change. Use your mirrors to spot overtaking vehicles. There are “blind spots” that your mirrors cannot show you. Check your mirrors regularly to know where other vehicles are around you, and to see if they move into your blind spots.
Check your vehicle. Use the mirrors to keep an eye on your tires. It’s one way to spot a tire fire. If you’re carrying open cargo, you can use the mirrors to check it. Look for loose straps, ropes, or chains. Watch for a flapping or ballooning tarp.
Special Situations. Special situations require more than regular mirror checks. These are lane changes, turns, merges, and tight maneuvers.
Lane Changes. You need to check your mirrors to make sure no one is alongside you or about to pass you. Check your mirrors:
• Before you change lanes to make sure there is enough room.
• After you have signaled to check that no one has moved into your blind spot.
• Right after you start the lane change to double-check that your path is clear
• After you complete the lane change
Turns. In turns, check your mirrors to make sure the rear of your vehicle will not hit anything.
Merges. When merging, use your mirrors to make sure the gap in traffic is large enough for you to enter safely.
Tight maneuvers. Any time you are driving in close quarters check your mirrors often. Make sure you have enough clearance.
How to use Mirrors. Use mirrors correctly by checking them quickly and understanding what you see.
Checking quickly. When you use your mirrors while driving on the road, check quickly. Look back and forth between the mirrors and the road ahead. Don’t focus on the mirrors for too long. Otherwise, you will travel quite a distance without knowing what’s happening ahead.
Understanding what you see. Many large vehicles have curved (convex. “fisheye,” “spot,” “bugeye”) mirrors that show a wider area than flat mirrors. This is often helpful. But everything appears smaller in a convex mirror than it would if you were looking at it directly. Things also seem farther away than they really are. It’s important to realize this and allow for it.
Safety First!
Jayson Z
To be a safe driver you need to know what’s going on all around your vehicle. Not looking properly is a major cause of accidents.
Seeing Ahead
All drivers look ahead; but many don’t look far enough ahead.
Importance of Looking Far Enough Ahead. Because stopping or changing lanes can take a lot of distance, knowing what the traffic is doing on all sides of you is very important. You need to look well ahead to make sure you have room to make these moves safely.
How Far Ahead to Look. Most good drivers look 12 to 15 seconds ahead. That means looking ahead the distance you will travel in 12 to 15 seconds. At lower speeds, that’s about one block. At highway speeds it’s about a quarter mile. If you’re not looking that far ahead, you may have to stop too quickly or make quick lane changes. Looking 13 to 15 seconds ahead doesn’t mean not paying attention to things that are closer. Good drivers shift their attention back and forth, near and far.
Look for Traffic. Look for vehicles coming onto the highway, into your lane, or turning. Watch for brake lights from slowing vehicles. By seeing these things far enough ahead, you can change your speed or change lanes if necessary to avoid a problem.
Look for Road Conditions. Look for hills and curves-anything you’ll have to slow or change lanes for. Pay attention to traffic signals and signs. If a light has been green for a long time, it will probably change before you get there. Start slowing down and be ready to stop. Traffic signs may alert you to road conditions where you may have to change speed.
Seeing to the Sides and Rear
It’s important to know what’s going on behind and to the sides. Check your mirrors regularly. Check more often in special situations.
Mirror Adjustment. Mirror adjustment should be checked prior to the start of any trip and can only be checked accurately when the trailer(s) are straight. You should check and adjust each mirror as needed.
Regular Checks. You need to make regular checks of your mirrors to be aware of traffic and to check your vehicle.
Trafffic. Check your mirrors for vehicles on either side and in back of you. In an emergency, you may need to know whether you can make a quick lane change. Use your mirrors to spot overtaking vehicles. There are “blind spots” that your mirrors cannot show you. Check your mirrors regularly to know where other vehicles are around you, and to see if they move into your blind spots.
Check your vehicle. Use the mirrors to keep an eye on your tires. It’s one way to spot a tire fire. If you’re carrying open cargo, you can use the mirrors to check it. Look for loose straps, ropes, or chains. Watch for a flapping or ballooning tarp.
Special Situations. Special situations require more than regular mirror checks. These are lane changes, turns, merges, and tight maneuvers.
Lane Changes. You need to check your mirrors to make sure no one is alongside you or about to pass you. Check your mirrors:
• Before you change lanes to make sure there is enough room.
• After you have signaled to check that no one has moved into your blind spot.
• Right after you start the lane change to double-check that your path is clear
• After you complete the lane change
Turns. In turns, check your mirrors to make sure the rear of your vehicle will not hit anything.
Merges. When merging, use your mirrors to make sure the gap in traffic is large enough for you to enter safely.
Tight maneuvers. Any time you are driving in close quarters check your mirrors often. Make sure you have enough clearance.
How to use Mirrors. Use mirrors correctly by checking them quickly and understanding what you see.
Checking quickly. When you use your mirrors while driving on the road, check quickly. Look back and forth between the mirrors and the road ahead. Don’t focus on the mirrors for too long. Otherwise, you will travel quite a distance without knowing what’s happening ahead.
Understanding what you see. Many large vehicles have curved (convex. “fisheye,” “spot,” “bugeye”) mirrors that show a wider area than flat mirrors. This is often helpful. But everything appears smaller in a convex mirror than it would if you were looking at it directly. Things also seem farther away than they really are. It’s important to realize this and allow for it.
Safety First!
Jayson Z
2.5 Communicating
2.5 Communicating
Other drivers can’t know what you are going to do until you tell them.
Signal Your Intentions
Signaling what you intend to do is important for safety. Here are some general rules for signaling.
Turns. There are three good rules for using turn signals
1. Signal early. Signal well before you turn. It is the best way to keep others from trying to pass.
2. Signal continuously. You need both hands on the wheel to turn safely. Don’t cancel the signal until you have completed the turn.
3. Cancel your signal. Don’t forget to turn off your turn signal after you’re turned (if you don’t have self-cancelling signals).
Lane Changes. Put your turn signal on before changing lanes. Change lanes slowly and smoothly. That way a driver you didn’t see may have a chance to hank his/her horn or avoid your vehicle.
Slowing Down. Warn drivers behind you when you see you’ll need to slow down. A few light taps on the brake pedal-enough to flash the brake lights-should warn following drivers. Use the 4way emergency flashers for times when you are driving very slow or are stopped. Warn other drivers in any of the following situations:
Trouble ahead. The size of your vehicle may make it hard for drivers behind you to see hazards ahead. If you see hazards ahead. If you see a hazard that will require slowing down, warn the drivers behind by flashing your brake lights.
Tight turns. Most car drivers don’t know how to slow you have to go to make a tight turn in a large vehicle. Give drivers behind you warning by braking early and slowing gradually.
Stopping on the Road. Truck and bus drivers sometimes stop in the road to unload cargo or passengers or to stop at a railroad crossing. Warn following drivers by flashing your brake lights. Don’t stop suddenly.
Driving Slowly. Drivers often do not realize how fast they are catching up to a slow vehicle until they are very close. If you must drive slowly, alert following drivers by turning on your emergency flashers if it is legal. (Laws regarding the use of flashers differ from one state to another. Check the laws of the states where you will drive.)
Don’t Direct Traffic. Some drivers try to help out others by signaling when it is safe to pass. You should not do this. You could cause an accident. You could be blamed and it could cost you many thousands of dollars.
Communicating Your Presence
Other drivers may not notice your vehicle even when it’s in plain sight. Let them know you’re there to help prevent accidents.
When Passing. Whenever you are about to pass a vehicle, pedestrian, or bicyclist, assume they don’t see you. They could suddenly move in front of you. Drive carefully enough to avoid a crash even if they don’t see or hear you.
When It’s Hard to See. At dawn or dusk or in rain or snow, you need to make yourself easier to see. If you are having trouble seeing other vehicles, other drivers will have trouble seeing you. Turn on your lights. Use the headlights, not just the identification or clearance lights. Use the low beams; high beams can bother people in the daytime as at night.
When Parked At the Side of the Road. When you pull off the road and stop, be sure to turn on the 4-way emergency flashers. This is important at night. Don’t trust the taillights to give warning. Drivers have crashed into the rear of a parked vehicle because they thought it was moving normally.
If you must stop on a road or the shoulder of any road, you must put out your emergency warning devices within ten minutes. Place your warning devices at the following locations:
• If you stop on a 2-lane road carrying traffic in both directions or on an undivided highway, place warning devices within ten feet of the front or rear corners to mark the location of the vehicle and 100 feet behind and ahead of the vehicle, on the shoulder or in the lane you stopped in. (See Figure 2-8.)
• Back beyond any hill, curve, or other obstruction that prevents other drivers from seeing the vehicle within 500 feet. (See Figure 2-9.)
• If you must stop on or by a one-way or divided highway, place warning devices 10 feet, 100 feet, and 200 feet toward the approaching traffic. (See Figure 2-10.)
When putting out the triangles, hold them between yourself and the oncoming traffic for your own safety. (So other drivers can see you.)
Use Your Horn When Needed. Your horn can let others know you’re there. It can help to avoid a crash. Use your horn when needed. However, it can startle others and could be dangerous when used unnecessarily.
Safety First!
Jayson Z
Other drivers can’t know what you are going to do until you tell them.
Signal Your Intentions
Signaling what you intend to do is important for safety. Here are some general rules for signaling.
Turns. There are three good rules for using turn signals
1. Signal early. Signal well before you turn. It is the best way to keep others from trying to pass.
2. Signal continuously. You need both hands on the wheel to turn safely. Don’t cancel the signal until you have completed the turn.
3. Cancel your signal. Don’t forget to turn off your turn signal after you’re turned (if you don’t have self-cancelling signals).
Lane Changes. Put your turn signal on before changing lanes. Change lanes slowly and smoothly. That way a driver you didn’t see may have a chance to hank his/her horn or avoid your vehicle.
Slowing Down. Warn drivers behind you when you see you’ll need to slow down. A few light taps on the brake pedal-enough to flash the brake lights-should warn following drivers. Use the 4way emergency flashers for times when you are driving very slow or are stopped. Warn other drivers in any of the following situations:
Trouble ahead. The size of your vehicle may make it hard for drivers behind you to see hazards ahead. If you see hazards ahead. If you see a hazard that will require slowing down, warn the drivers behind by flashing your brake lights.
Tight turns. Most car drivers don’t know how to slow you have to go to make a tight turn in a large vehicle. Give drivers behind you warning by braking early and slowing gradually.
Stopping on the Road. Truck and bus drivers sometimes stop in the road to unload cargo or passengers or to stop at a railroad crossing. Warn following drivers by flashing your brake lights. Don’t stop suddenly.
Driving Slowly. Drivers often do not realize how fast they are catching up to a slow vehicle until they are very close. If you must drive slowly, alert following drivers by turning on your emergency flashers if it is legal. (Laws regarding the use of flashers differ from one state to another. Check the laws of the states where you will drive.)
Don’t Direct Traffic. Some drivers try to help out others by signaling when it is safe to pass. You should not do this. You could cause an accident. You could be blamed and it could cost you many thousands of dollars.
Communicating Your Presence
Other drivers may not notice your vehicle even when it’s in plain sight. Let them know you’re there to help prevent accidents.
When Passing. Whenever you are about to pass a vehicle, pedestrian, or bicyclist, assume they don’t see you. They could suddenly move in front of you. Drive carefully enough to avoid a crash even if they don’t see or hear you.
When It’s Hard to See. At dawn or dusk or in rain or snow, you need to make yourself easier to see. If you are having trouble seeing other vehicles, other drivers will have trouble seeing you. Turn on your lights. Use the headlights, not just the identification or clearance lights. Use the low beams; high beams can bother people in the daytime as at night.
When Parked At the Side of the Road. When you pull off the road and stop, be sure to turn on the 4-way emergency flashers. This is important at night. Don’t trust the taillights to give warning. Drivers have crashed into the rear of a parked vehicle because they thought it was moving normally.
If you must stop on a road or the shoulder of any road, you must put out your emergency warning devices within ten minutes. Place your warning devices at the following locations:
• If you stop on a 2-lane road carrying traffic in both directions or on an undivided highway, place warning devices within ten feet of the front or rear corners to mark the location of the vehicle and 100 feet behind and ahead of the vehicle, on the shoulder or in the lane you stopped in. (See Figure 2-8.)
• Back beyond any hill, curve, or other obstruction that prevents other drivers from seeing the vehicle within 500 feet. (See Figure 2-9.)
• If you must stop on or by a one-way or divided highway, place warning devices 10 feet, 100 feet, and 200 feet toward the approaching traffic. (See Figure 2-10.)
When putting out the triangles, hold them between yourself and the oncoming traffic for your own safety. (So other drivers can see you.)
Use Your Horn When Needed. Your horn can let others know you’re there. It can help to avoid a crash. Use your horn when needed. However, it can startle others and could be dangerous when used unnecessarily.
Safety First!
Jayson Z
2.6 Controlling Speed
2.6 Controlling Speed
Driving too fast is a major cause of fatal crashes. You must adjust your speed depending on driving conditions. These include traction, curves, visibility, traffic, and hills.
Speed and Stopping Distances
There are three things that add up to total stopping distance:
Perception distance
+ Reaction Distance
+ Braking Distance
-----------------------------
= Total Stopping Distance
• Perception distance. This is the distance your vehicle travels from the time your eyes see a hazard until your brain recognizes it. The perception time for an alert driver is about ¾ second. At 55 mph, you travel 60 feet in ¾ second.
* Reaction distance. The distance traveled from the time your brain tells your foot to move from the accelerator until your foot is actually pushing the brake pedal. The average driver has a reaction time of 3/4 second. This accounts for an additional 60 feet traveled at 55 mph.
• Braking distance. The distance it takes to stop once the brakes are put on. At 55 mph on dry pavement with good brakes it can take a heavy vehicle about 170 feet to stop. It takes about 4 ½ seconds.
• Total stopping distance. At 55 mph it will take about 6 seconds to stop and your vehicle will travel about the distance of a football field. (60 + 60 + 70= 290 feet.)
The effect of speed on stopping distance. Whenever you double your speed, it takes about four times as much distance to stop and your vehicle will have four times the destructive power if it crashes. High speeds increase stopping distances greatly. By slowing down a little, you can gain a lot in reduced braking distance.
The effect of vehicle weight on stopping distance. The heavier the vehicle, the more work the brakes must do to stop it and the more heat they absorb. But the brakes, tires, springs, and shock absorbers on heavy vehicles are designed to work best when the vehicle is fully loaded. Empty trucks require greater stopping distances, because an empty vehicle has less traction. It can bounce and lock up its wheels, giving much poorer braking. (This is not usually the case with buses.)
Matching Speeds to the Road Surface
You can’t steer or brake a vehicle unless you have traction. Traction is friction between the tires and the road. There are some road conditions that reduce traction and call for lower speeds.
Slippery Surfaces. It will take longer to stop and it will be harder to turn without skidding when the road is slippery. You must drive slower to be able to stop in the same distance as on a dry road. Wet roads can double stopping distance. Reduce speed by about one third (e.g., slow from 55 to about 35 mph) on a wet road. On packed snow, reduce speed by a half, or more. If the surface is icy, reduce speed to a crawl and stop driving as soon as you can safely do so.
Identifying Slippery Surfaces. Sometimes it’s hard to know if the road is slippery. Here are some signs of slippery roads.
Shaded areas. Shady parts of the road will remain icy and slippery long after open areas have melted.
Bridges. When the temperature drops, bridges will freeze before the road will. Be especially careful when the temperature is close to 32 degrees F.
Melting ice. Slight melting will make ice wet. Wet ice is much more slippery than ice that is not wet.
Black ice. Black ice is a thin layer that is clear enough that you can see the road underneath it. It makes the road look wet. Any time the temperature is below freezing and the road looks wet, watch out for black ice.
Vehicle icing. An easy way to check for ice is to open the window and feel the front of the mirror, mirror support, or antenna. If there’s ice on these, the road surface is probably starting to ice up.
Just after rain begins. Right after it starts to rain, the water mixes with oil left on the road by vehicles. This makes the road very slippery. If the rain continues, it will wash the oil away.
Hydroplaning. In some weather, water or slush collects on the road. When this happens, your vehicle can hydroplane. It’s like water skiing: the tires lose their contact with the road and have little or no traction. You may not be able to steer or brake. You can regain control by releasing the accelerator and pushing in the clutch. This will slow your vehicle and let the wheels turn freely. If the vehicle is hydroplaning, do not use the brakes to slow down. If the drive wheels start to skid, push in the clutch to let them turn freely.
It does not take a lot of water to cause hydroplaning. Hydroplaning can occur at speeds as low as 30 mph if there is a lot of water. Hydroplaning is more likely if tire pressure is low or the tread is worn. (The grooves in a tire carry away the water; if they aren’t deep, they don’t work well.) Be especially careful driving through puddles. The water is often deep enough to cause hydroplaning.
Speed and Curves
Drivers must adjust their speed for curves in the road. If you take a curve too fast, two things can happen. The tires can lose their traction and continue straight ahead, so you skid off the road. Or, the tires may keep their traction and the vehicle rolls over. Test have shown that trucks with a high center of gravity can roll over at the posted speed limit for a curve.
Slow to a safe speed before you enter a curve. Braking in a curve is dangerous because it is easier to lock the wheels and cause a skid. Slow down as needed. Don’t ever exceed the posted speed limit for the curve. Be in a gear that will let you accelerate slightly in the curve. This will help you keep control.
Speed and Distance Ahead
You should always be able to stop within the distance you can see ahead. Fog, rain or other conditions may require that you slow down to be able to stop in the distance you can see. At night, you can’t see as far with low beams as you can with high beams. When you must use low beams, slow down.
Speed and Traffic Flow
When you’re driving in heavy traffic, the safest speed is the speed of other vehicles. Vehicles going the same direction at the same speed are not likely to run into one another. Drive at the speed of the traffic, if you can without going at an illegal or unsafe speed. Keep a safe following distance.
The main reason drivers exceed speed limits, is to save time. But anyone trying to drive faster than the speed of traffic will not be able to save much time. The risk involved are not worth it. If you go faster than the speed of other traffic, you’ll have to keep passing other vehicles. This increases the chance of a crash; and it is more tiring. Fatigue increases the chance of a crash. Going with the flow of traffic is safer and easier.
Speed on Downgrades
Your vehicle’s speed will increase on downgrades because of gravity. Your most important objective is to select and maintain a speed that is not too fast for the:
• Total weight of the vehicle and cargo
• Length of the grade
• Steepness of the grade
• Road conditions
• Weather
If a speed limit is posted, or there is a sign indicating “Maximum Safe Speed,” never exceed the speed shown. Also, look for and heed warning signs indicating the length and steepness of the grade. You must use the braking effect of the engine as the principle way of controlling your speed on downgrades. The braking effect of the engine is greatest when it is near the governed RPM’s and the transmission is in the lower gears. Save your brakes so you will be able to slow or stop as required by road and traffic conditions. Shift your transmission to a low gear before starting down the grade and use the proper braking techniques. Please read carefully the section on going down long steep downgrades safely in “Mountain Driving.”
Safety First!
Jayson Z
Driving too fast is a major cause of fatal crashes. You must adjust your speed depending on driving conditions. These include traction, curves, visibility, traffic, and hills.
Speed and Stopping Distances
There are three things that add up to total stopping distance:
Perception distance
+ Reaction Distance
+ Braking Distance
-----------------------------
= Total Stopping Distance
• Perception distance. This is the distance your vehicle travels from the time your eyes see a hazard until your brain recognizes it. The perception time for an alert driver is about ¾ second. At 55 mph, you travel 60 feet in ¾ second.
* Reaction distance. The distance traveled from the time your brain tells your foot to move from the accelerator until your foot is actually pushing the brake pedal. The average driver has a reaction time of 3/4 second. This accounts for an additional 60 feet traveled at 55 mph.
• Braking distance. The distance it takes to stop once the brakes are put on. At 55 mph on dry pavement with good brakes it can take a heavy vehicle about 170 feet to stop. It takes about 4 ½ seconds.
• Total stopping distance. At 55 mph it will take about 6 seconds to stop and your vehicle will travel about the distance of a football field. (60 + 60 + 70= 290 feet.)
The effect of speed on stopping distance. Whenever you double your speed, it takes about four times as much distance to stop and your vehicle will have four times the destructive power if it crashes. High speeds increase stopping distances greatly. By slowing down a little, you can gain a lot in reduced braking distance.
The effect of vehicle weight on stopping distance. The heavier the vehicle, the more work the brakes must do to stop it and the more heat they absorb. But the brakes, tires, springs, and shock absorbers on heavy vehicles are designed to work best when the vehicle is fully loaded. Empty trucks require greater stopping distances, because an empty vehicle has less traction. It can bounce and lock up its wheels, giving much poorer braking. (This is not usually the case with buses.)
Matching Speeds to the Road Surface
You can’t steer or brake a vehicle unless you have traction. Traction is friction between the tires and the road. There are some road conditions that reduce traction and call for lower speeds.
Slippery Surfaces. It will take longer to stop and it will be harder to turn without skidding when the road is slippery. You must drive slower to be able to stop in the same distance as on a dry road. Wet roads can double stopping distance. Reduce speed by about one third (e.g., slow from 55 to about 35 mph) on a wet road. On packed snow, reduce speed by a half, or more. If the surface is icy, reduce speed to a crawl and stop driving as soon as you can safely do so.
Identifying Slippery Surfaces. Sometimes it’s hard to know if the road is slippery. Here are some signs of slippery roads.
Shaded areas. Shady parts of the road will remain icy and slippery long after open areas have melted.
Bridges. When the temperature drops, bridges will freeze before the road will. Be especially careful when the temperature is close to 32 degrees F.
Melting ice. Slight melting will make ice wet. Wet ice is much more slippery than ice that is not wet.
Black ice. Black ice is a thin layer that is clear enough that you can see the road underneath it. It makes the road look wet. Any time the temperature is below freezing and the road looks wet, watch out for black ice.
Vehicle icing. An easy way to check for ice is to open the window and feel the front of the mirror, mirror support, or antenna. If there’s ice on these, the road surface is probably starting to ice up.
Just after rain begins. Right after it starts to rain, the water mixes with oil left on the road by vehicles. This makes the road very slippery. If the rain continues, it will wash the oil away.
Hydroplaning. In some weather, water or slush collects on the road. When this happens, your vehicle can hydroplane. It’s like water skiing: the tires lose their contact with the road and have little or no traction. You may not be able to steer or brake. You can regain control by releasing the accelerator and pushing in the clutch. This will slow your vehicle and let the wheels turn freely. If the vehicle is hydroplaning, do not use the brakes to slow down. If the drive wheels start to skid, push in the clutch to let them turn freely.
It does not take a lot of water to cause hydroplaning. Hydroplaning can occur at speeds as low as 30 mph if there is a lot of water. Hydroplaning is more likely if tire pressure is low or the tread is worn. (The grooves in a tire carry away the water; if they aren’t deep, they don’t work well.) Be especially careful driving through puddles. The water is often deep enough to cause hydroplaning.
Speed and Curves
Drivers must adjust their speed for curves in the road. If you take a curve too fast, two things can happen. The tires can lose their traction and continue straight ahead, so you skid off the road. Or, the tires may keep their traction and the vehicle rolls over. Test have shown that trucks with a high center of gravity can roll over at the posted speed limit for a curve.
Slow to a safe speed before you enter a curve. Braking in a curve is dangerous because it is easier to lock the wheels and cause a skid. Slow down as needed. Don’t ever exceed the posted speed limit for the curve. Be in a gear that will let you accelerate slightly in the curve. This will help you keep control.
Speed and Distance Ahead
You should always be able to stop within the distance you can see ahead. Fog, rain or other conditions may require that you slow down to be able to stop in the distance you can see. At night, you can’t see as far with low beams as you can with high beams. When you must use low beams, slow down.
Speed and Traffic Flow
When you’re driving in heavy traffic, the safest speed is the speed of other vehicles. Vehicles going the same direction at the same speed are not likely to run into one another. Drive at the speed of the traffic, if you can without going at an illegal or unsafe speed. Keep a safe following distance.
The main reason drivers exceed speed limits, is to save time. But anyone trying to drive faster than the speed of traffic will not be able to save much time. The risk involved are not worth it. If you go faster than the speed of other traffic, you’ll have to keep passing other vehicles. This increases the chance of a crash; and it is more tiring. Fatigue increases the chance of a crash. Going with the flow of traffic is safer and easier.
Speed on Downgrades
Your vehicle’s speed will increase on downgrades because of gravity. Your most important objective is to select and maintain a speed that is not too fast for the:
• Total weight of the vehicle and cargo
• Length of the grade
• Steepness of the grade
• Road conditions
• Weather
If a speed limit is posted, or there is a sign indicating “Maximum Safe Speed,” never exceed the speed shown. Also, look for and heed warning signs indicating the length and steepness of the grade. You must use the braking effect of the engine as the principle way of controlling your speed on downgrades. The braking effect of the engine is greatest when it is near the governed RPM’s and the transmission is in the lower gears. Save your brakes so you will be able to slow or stop as required by road and traffic conditions. Shift your transmission to a low gear before starting down the grade and use the proper braking techniques. Please read carefully the section on going down long steep downgrades safely in “Mountain Driving.”
Safety First!
Jayson Z
2.7 Managing Space
2.7 Managing Space
To be a safe driver, you need space all around your vehicle. When things go wrong, space gives you time to think and to take action.
To have space available when something goes wrong, you need to manage space. While this is true for all drivers, it is very important for large vehicles. They take up more space and they require more space for stopping and turning.
Space Ahead
Of all the space around your vehicle, it is the area ahead of the vehicle-the space you’re driving into-that is most important.
The Need for Space Ahead. You need space ahead in case you must suddenly stop. According to accident reports, the vehicle that trucks and busses most often run into is the one in front of them. The most frequent cause is following too closely. Remember, if the vehicle ahead of you is smaller than yours, it can probably stop faster than you can. You may crash if you are following too closely.
How Much Space? How much space should you keep in front of you? One good rule says you need at least one second for each 10 feet of vehicle length at speeds below 40 mph. At greater speeds, you must add one second for safety. For example, if you are driving a 40-foot vehicle, you should leave 4 seconds between you and the vehicle ahead. In a 60-foot rig, you’ll need 6 seconds. Over 40 mph, you’d need 5 seconds for a 40-foot vehicle and 7 seconds for a 60-foot vehicle.
To know how much space you have, wait until the vehicle ahead passes a shadow on the road, a pavement marking, or some other clear landmark. Then count off the seconds like this: “one thousand-and –one, one thousand-and-two” and so on, until you reach the same spot. Compare your count with the rule of one second for every 10 feet of length. If you are driving a 40 foot truck and only counted up to 2 seconds, you’re too close. Drop back a little and count again until you have 4 seconds of following distance (or 5 seconds, if you’re going over 40 mph). After a little practice, you will know how far back you should be. Remember that when the road is slippery, you need much more space to stop.
Space Behind
You can’t stop others from following you too closely. But there are things you can do to make it safer.
Stay to the right. Heavy vehicles are often tailgated when they can’t keep up with the speed of traffic. This often happens when you’re going uphill. If a heavy load is slowing you down, stay in the right lane if you can. Going uphill, you should not pass another slow vehicle unless you can get around quickly and safely.
Dealing with Tailgate Safety. In a large vehicle, it’s often hard to see whether a vehicle is close behind you. You may be tailgated:
• When you are traveling slowly. Drivers trapped behind slow vehicles often follow closely
• In bad weather. Many car drivers follow large vehicles closely during bad weather, especially when it is hard to see the road ahead.
If you find yourself being tailgated, here are some things you can do to reduce the chances of a crash:
• Avoid quick changes. If you have to slow down or turn, signal early and reduce speed very gradually
• Increase your following distance. Opening up room in front of you will help you to avoid having to make sudden speed or direction changes. It also makes it easier for the tailgater to get around you.
• Don’t speed up. It’s safer to be tailgated at a low speed than a high speed
• Avoid tricks. Don’t turn on your taillights or flash your brake lights.
Follow the suggestions above.
Space to the Sides
Commercial vehicles are often wide and take up most of a lane. Safe drivers will manage what little space they have. You can do this by keeping your vehicle centered in your lane, and avoid driving alongside others.
Staying Centered in a Lane. You need to keep your vehicle centered in the lane to keep safe clearance on either side. If your vehicle is wide, you have little room to spare.
Traveling Next to Others. There are two dangers in traveling alongside other vehicles:
• Another driver may change lanes suddenly and turn into you.
• You may be trapped when you need to change lanes
Find an open spot where you aren’t near other traffic. When traffic is heavy, it may be hard to find an open spot. If you must travel near other vehicles, try to keep as much space as possible between you and them. Also, drop back or pull forward so that you are sure the other driver can see you.
Strong Winds. Strong winds make it difficult to stay in your lane. The problem is usually worse for lighter vehicles. This problem can be especially bad coming out of tunnels. Don’t drive alongside others if you can avoid it.
Space Overhead
Hitting overhead objects is a danger. Make sure you always have overhead clearance.
• Don’t assume that the heights posted at bridges and overpasses are correct. Re-paving or packed snow may have reduced the clearance since the heights were posted.
• The weight of a cargo van changes its height. An empty van is higher than a loaded one. If you got under a bridge when you were loaded, that does not necessarily mean you can do it when you are empty.
• If you doubt you have safe space to pass under an object, go slowly. If you aren’t sure you can make it, take another route. Warnings are often posted on low bridges or underpass, but sometimes they are not.
• Some roads can cause a vehicle to tilt. There can be a problem learning objects along the edge of the road, such as signs, trees or bridge supports. Where this is a problem, drive a little closer to the center of the road.
• Before you back into an area, get out and look (G.O.A.L.) for overhanging objects, such as trees, branches, or electric wires. It’s easy to miss seeing them while you are backing. (Also check for other hazards at the same time.)
Space Below
Many drivers forget about the space under their vehicles. That space can be very small when a vehicle is heavily loaded. Railroad tracks can stick up several inches. This is often a problem on dirt roads and in unpaved yards where the surface around the tracks can wear away. Don’t take a chance on getting hung up halfway across. Drainage channels across roads can cause the end of some vehicles to drag. Cross such depressions carefully.
Space for Turns
The space around a truck or bus is important in turns. Because of wide turning and offtracking, large vehicles can hit other vehicles or objects during turns.
Right Turns. Here are some rules to help prevent right-turn crashes:
• Turn slowly to give yourself and others more time to avoid problems.
• If you are driving a truck or bus that cannot make the right turn without swinging into another lane, turn wide as you complete the turn, as shown in Figure 2-11. Keep the rear of your vehicle close to the curb. This will stop other drivers from passing you on the right.
• Don’t turn wide to the left as you start the turn, as shown in Figure 2-12. A following driver may think you are turning left and try to pass you on the right. You may crash into the other vehicle as you complete your turn.
• If you must cross into the oncoming lane to make a turn, watch out for vehicles coming toward you. Give them room to go by or to stop. However, don’t back up for them, because you might hit someone behind you.
Left Turns. On a left turn, make sure you have reached the center of the intersection before you start the left turn. If you turn too soon, the left side of your vehicle may hit another vehicle because of offtracking.
• After you have completed your turn, move into the right most traffic lane when traffic is clear. See Figure 2-13.
• If there are two turning lanes, always take the right-hand turn lane, as shown in Figure 2-14. Don’t start in the inside lane because you may have to swing right to make the turn. Drivers on your left can be more readily seen.
Space Needed to Cross or Enter Traffic
Be aware of the size and weight of your vehicle when you cross or enter traffic. Here are some important things to keep in mind:
• Because of slow acceleration and the space large vehicles require, you may need a much larger gap to enter traffic than you would in a car.
• Acceleration varies with the load. Allow more room if your vehicle is heavily loaded.
• Before you start across a road, make sure you can get all the way across before traffic reaches you.
Figure 2-13
Turn into the lane closest to the lane from which you came. Allow for off tracking if your vehicle is long. Return to right-most traffic lane when safe and traffic permits. Don't return to the right lane or near other intersections.
Figure 2-14
If there are two left turn lanes, use the right-hand lane.
Safety First!
Jayson Z
To be a safe driver, you need space all around your vehicle. When things go wrong, space gives you time to think and to take action.
To have space available when something goes wrong, you need to manage space. While this is true for all drivers, it is very important for large vehicles. They take up more space and they require more space for stopping and turning.
Space Ahead
Of all the space around your vehicle, it is the area ahead of the vehicle-the space you’re driving into-that is most important.
The Need for Space Ahead. You need space ahead in case you must suddenly stop. According to accident reports, the vehicle that trucks and busses most often run into is the one in front of them. The most frequent cause is following too closely. Remember, if the vehicle ahead of you is smaller than yours, it can probably stop faster than you can. You may crash if you are following too closely.
How Much Space? How much space should you keep in front of you? One good rule says you need at least one second for each 10 feet of vehicle length at speeds below 40 mph. At greater speeds, you must add one second for safety. For example, if you are driving a 40-foot vehicle, you should leave 4 seconds between you and the vehicle ahead. In a 60-foot rig, you’ll need 6 seconds. Over 40 mph, you’d need 5 seconds for a 40-foot vehicle and 7 seconds for a 60-foot vehicle.
To know how much space you have, wait until the vehicle ahead passes a shadow on the road, a pavement marking, or some other clear landmark. Then count off the seconds like this: “one thousand-and –one, one thousand-and-two” and so on, until you reach the same spot. Compare your count with the rule of one second for every 10 feet of length. If you are driving a 40 foot truck and only counted up to 2 seconds, you’re too close. Drop back a little and count again until you have 4 seconds of following distance (or 5 seconds, if you’re going over 40 mph). After a little practice, you will know how far back you should be. Remember that when the road is slippery, you need much more space to stop.
Space Behind
You can’t stop others from following you too closely. But there are things you can do to make it safer.
Stay to the right. Heavy vehicles are often tailgated when they can’t keep up with the speed of traffic. This often happens when you’re going uphill. If a heavy load is slowing you down, stay in the right lane if you can. Going uphill, you should not pass another slow vehicle unless you can get around quickly and safely.
Dealing with Tailgate Safety. In a large vehicle, it’s often hard to see whether a vehicle is close behind you. You may be tailgated:
• When you are traveling slowly. Drivers trapped behind slow vehicles often follow closely
• In bad weather. Many car drivers follow large vehicles closely during bad weather, especially when it is hard to see the road ahead.
If you find yourself being tailgated, here are some things you can do to reduce the chances of a crash:
• Avoid quick changes. If you have to slow down or turn, signal early and reduce speed very gradually
• Increase your following distance. Opening up room in front of you will help you to avoid having to make sudden speed or direction changes. It also makes it easier for the tailgater to get around you.
• Don’t speed up. It’s safer to be tailgated at a low speed than a high speed
• Avoid tricks. Don’t turn on your taillights or flash your brake lights.
Follow the suggestions above.
Space to the Sides
Commercial vehicles are often wide and take up most of a lane. Safe drivers will manage what little space they have. You can do this by keeping your vehicle centered in your lane, and avoid driving alongside others.
Staying Centered in a Lane. You need to keep your vehicle centered in the lane to keep safe clearance on either side. If your vehicle is wide, you have little room to spare.
Traveling Next to Others. There are two dangers in traveling alongside other vehicles:
• Another driver may change lanes suddenly and turn into you.
• You may be trapped when you need to change lanes
Find an open spot where you aren’t near other traffic. When traffic is heavy, it may be hard to find an open spot. If you must travel near other vehicles, try to keep as much space as possible between you and them. Also, drop back or pull forward so that you are sure the other driver can see you.
Strong Winds. Strong winds make it difficult to stay in your lane. The problem is usually worse for lighter vehicles. This problem can be especially bad coming out of tunnels. Don’t drive alongside others if you can avoid it.
Space Overhead
Hitting overhead objects is a danger. Make sure you always have overhead clearance.
• Don’t assume that the heights posted at bridges and overpasses are correct. Re-paving or packed snow may have reduced the clearance since the heights were posted.
• The weight of a cargo van changes its height. An empty van is higher than a loaded one. If you got under a bridge when you were loaded, that does not necessarily mean you can do it when you are empty.
• If you doubt you have safe space to pass under an object, go slowly. If you aren’t sure you can make it, take another route. Warnings are often posted on low bridges or underpass, but sometimes they are not.
• Some roads can cause a vehicle to tilt. There can be a problem learning objects along the edge of the road, such as signs, trees or bridge supports. Where this is a problem, drive a little closer to the center of the road.
• Before you back into an area, get out and look (G.O.A.L.) for overhanging objects, such as trees, branches, or electric wires. It’s easy to miss seeing them while you are backing. (Also check for other hazards at the same time.)
Space Below
Many drivers forget about the space under their vehicles. That space can be very small when a vehicle is heavily loaded. Railroad tracks can stick up several inches. This is often a problem on dirt roads and in unpaved yards where the surface around the tracks can wear away. Don’t take a chance on getting hung up halfway across. Drainage channels across roads can cause the end of some vehicles to drag. Cross such depressions carefully.
Space for Turns
The space around a truck or bus is important in turns. Because of wide turning and offtracking, large vehicles can hit other vehicles or objects during turns.
Right Turns. Here are some rules to help prevent right-turn crashes:
• Turn slowly to give yourself and others more time to avoid problems.
• If you are driving a truck or bus that cannot make the right turn without swinging into another lane, turn wide as you complete the turn, as shown in Figure 2-11. Keep the rear of your vehicle close to the curb. This will stop other drivers from passing you on the right.
• Don’t turn wide to the left as you start the turn, as shown in Figure 2-12. A following driver may think you are turning left and try to pass you on the right. You may crash into the other vehicle as you complete your turn.
• If you must cross into the oncoming lane to make a turn, watch out for vehicles coming toward you. Give them room to go by or to stop. However, don’t back up for them, because you might hit someone behind you.
Left Turns. On a left turn, make sure you have reached the center of the intersection before you start the left turn. If you turn too soon, the left side of your vehicle may hit another vehicle because of offtracking.
• After you have completed your turn, move into the right most traffic lane when traffic is clear. See Figure 2-13.
• If there are two turning lanes, always take the right-hand turn lane, as shown in Figure 2-14. Don’t start in the inside lane because you may have to swing right to make the turn. Drivers on your left can be more readily seen.
Space Needed to Cross or Enter Traffic
Be aware of the size and weight of your vehicle when you cross or enter traffic. Here are some important things to keep in mind:
• Because of slow acceleration and the space large vehicles require, you may need a much larger gap to enter traffic than you would in a car.
• Acceleration varies with the load. Allow more room if your vehicle is heavily loaded.
• Before you start across a road, make sure you can get all the way across before traffic reaches you.
Figure 2-13
Turn into the lane closest to the lane from which you came. Allow for off tracking if your vehicle is long. Return to right-most traffic lane when safe and traffic permits. Don't return to the right lane or near other intersections.
Figure 2-14
If there are two left turn lanes, use the right-hand lane.
Safety First!
Jayson Z
2.8 Driving at Night
2.8 Driving at Night
You are at greater risk when you drive at night. Drivers can’t see hazards as soon as in daylight, so they have less time to respond. Drivers caught by surprise are less able to avoid a crash.
It’s More Dangerous
The problems of night driving involve the driver, the roadway, and the vehicle. We will discuss each of these factors.
Driver Factors
Vision. People can’t see as sharply at night or in dim light. Also, their eyes need time to adjust to seeing in dim light. Most people have noticed this when walking into a dark movie theater.
Glare. Drivers can be blinded for a short time by bright light. It takes time to recover from this blindness. Older drivers are especially bothered by glare. Most people have been temporarily blinded by camera flash units or by the high beams of an oncoming vehicle. It can take several seconds to recover from glare. Even two seconds of glare blindness can be dangerous. A vehicle going 55 mph will travel more than half the distance of a football field during that time. Don’t look directly at bright lights when driving. Look at the right side of the road. Watch the right lane or edge marking when someone coming toward you has very bright lights.
Fatigue and Lack of Alertness. Fatigue (being tired) and lack of alertness are bigger problems at night. The body’s need for sleep is beyond a person’s control. Most people are less alert at night, especially after midnight. This is particularly true if you have been driving for a long time. Drivers may not see hazards as soon or react as quickly, so the chance of a crash is greater. If you are sleepy, the only safe cure is to get off the road and get some sleep. If you don’t you risk your life and the lives of others.
Roadway Factors
Poor Lighting. In the daytime there is usually enough light to see well. This is not true at night. Some areas may have bright street lights, but many areas will have poor lighting. On most roads you will probably have to depend entirely on your headlights.
Less light means you will not be able to see hazards as well as in daytime. Road users who do not have lights are hard to see. There are many accidents at night involving pedestrians, joggers, bicyclists, and animals.
Even when there are lights, the road scene can be confusing. Traffic signals and hazards can be hard to see against a background of signs, shop windows, and other lights.
Drive slower when lighting is poor or confusing. Drive slowly enough to be sure you can stop in the distance you can see ahead.
Drunk Drivers. Drunk drivers and drivers under the influence of drugs are a hazard to themselves and to you. Be especially alert around the closing times for bars and taverns. Watch for drivers who have truble staying in their lane or maintaining speed, stop wihout reason, or show other signs of being under the influence of alcohol or drugs.
Vehicle Factors
Headlights. At night your headlights will usually be the main source of light for you to see and for others to see you. You can’t see nearly as much with your headlights as you can see in the daytime. With low beams you can see ahead about 250 feet and with high beams about 350-500 feet. You must adjust your speed to keep your stopping distance within your sight distance. This means going slow enough to be able to stop within the range of your headlights. Otherwise, by the time you see a hazard, you will not have time to stop.
Night driving can be more dangerous if you have problems with your headlights. Dirty headlights may give only half the light they should. This cuts down your ability to see, and makes it harder for others to see you. Make sure your lights are clean and working. Headlights can be out of adjustment. If they don’t point in the right direction, they won’t give you a good view and they can blind other drivers. Have a qualified person make sure they are adjusted properly.
Other Lights. In order for you to be seen easily, the following must be clean and working properly:
• Reflectors
• Marker lights
• Clearance lights
• Taillights
• Identification lights
Turn Signals and Brake Lights. At night your turn signals and brake lights are even more important for telling other drivers what you intend to do. Make sure you have clean, working turn signals and stop lights.
Windshield and Mirrors. It is more important at night than in the daytime to have a clean windshield and clean mirrors. Bright lights at night can cause dirt on your windshield or mirrors to create a glare of its own, blocking your view. Most people have experienced driving toward the sun just as it has risen or is about to set and found that they can barely see through a windshield that seemed to look o.k. in the middle of the day. Clean your windshield on the inside and outside for safe driving at night.
Night Driving Procedures
Pre-Trip Procedures. Make sure you are rested and alert. If you are drowsy, sleep before you drive! Even a nap can save your life or the lives of others. If you wear eye glasses, make sure they are clean and unscratched. Don’t wear sun glasses at night. Do a complete pre-trip inspection of your vehicle. Pay attention to checking all lights and reflectors and cleaning those you can reach.
Avoid blinding others. Glare from your headlights can cause problems for drivers coming towards you. They can also bother drivers going in the same direction you are, when your lights shine in their rearview mirrors. Dim your lights before they cause glare for other drivers. Dim your lights within 500 feet of an oncoming vehicle and when following another vehicle within 500 feet.
Avoid glare from oncoming vehicles. Do not look directly at lights of oncoming vehicles. Look slightly to the right at a right lane or edge marking, if available. If other drivers don’t put their low beams on. This increase glare for oncoming drivers and increases the chance of a crash.
Use high beams when you can. Some drivers make the mistake of always using low beams. This seriously cuts down on their ability to see ahead. Use high beams when it is safe and legal to do so. Use them when you are not within 500 feet of an approaching vehicle. Also, don’t let the inside of your cab get too bright. This makes it harder to see outside. Keep the interior light off and adjust your instrument lights as low as you can still be able to read the gauges.
If you get sleepy, stop driving at the nearest safe place. People often don’t realize how close they are to falling asleep even when their eyelids are falling shut. If you can safely do so, look at yourself in a mirror. If you look sleepy, or you just feel sleepy, stop driving! You are in a very dangerous condition. The only safe cure is to sleep.
Safety First!
Jayson Z
You are at greater risk when you drive at night. Drivers can’t see hazards as soon as in daylight, so they have less time to respond. Drivers caught by surprise are less able to avoid a crash.
It’s More Dangerous
The problems of night driving involve the driver, the roadway, and the vehicle. We will discuss each of these factors.
Driver Factors
Vision. People can’t see as sharply at night or in dim light. Also, their eyes need time to adjust to seeing in dim light. Most people have noticed this when walking into a dark movie theater.
Glare. Drivers can be blinded for a short time by bright light. It takes time to recover from this blindness. Older drivers are especially bothered by glare. Most people have been temporarily blinded by camera flash units or by the high beams of an oncoming vehicle. It can take several seconds to recover from glare. Even two seconds of glare blindness can be dangerous. A vehicle going 55 mph will travel more than half the distance of a football field during that time. Don’t look directly at bright lights when driving. Look at the right side of the road. Watch the right lane or edge marking when someone coming toward you has very bright lights.
Fatigue and Lack of Alertness. Fatigue (being tired) and lack of alertness are bigger problems at night. The body’s need for sleep is beyond a person’s control. Most people are less alert at night, especially after midnight. This is particularly true if you have been driving for a long time. Drivers may not see hazards as soon or react as quickly, so the chance of a crash is greater. If you are sleepy, the only safe cure is to get off the road and get some sleep. If you don’t you risk your life and the lives of others.
Roadway Factors
Poor Lighting. In the daytime there is usually enough light to see well. This is not true at night. Some areas may have bright street lights, but many areas will have poor lighting. On most roads you will probably have to depend entirely on your headlights.
Less light means you will not be able to see hazards as well as in daytime. Road users who do not have lights are hard to see. There are many accidents at night involving pedestrians, joggers, bicyclists, and animals.
Even when there are lights, the road scene can be confusing. Traffic signals and hazards can be hard to see against a background of signs, shop windows, and other lights.
Drive slower when lighting is poor or confusing. Drive slowly enough to be sure you can stop in the distance you can see ahead.
Drunk Drivers. Drunk drivers and drivers under the influence of drugs are a hazard to themselves and to you. Be especially alert around the closing times for bars and taverns. Watch for drivers who have truble staying in their lane or maintaining speed, stop wihout reason, or show other signs of being under the influence of alcohol or drugs.
Vehicle Factors
Headlights. At night your headlights will usually be the main source of light for you to see and for others to see you. You can’t see nearly as much with your headlights as you can see in the daytime. With low beams you can see ahead about 250 feet and with high beams about 350-500 feet. You must adjust your speed to keep your stopping distance within your sight distance. This means going slow enough to be able to stop within the range of your headlights. Otherwise, by the time you see a hazard, you will not have time to stop.
Night driving can be more dangerous if you have problems with your headlights. Dirty headlights may give only half the light they should. This cuts down your ability to see, and makes it harder for others to see you. Make sure your lights are clean and working. Headlights can be out of adjustment. If they don’t point in the right direction, they won’t give you a good view and they can blind other drivers. Have a qualified person make sure they are adjusted properly.
Other Lights. In order for you to be seen easily, the following must be clean and working properly:
• Reflectors
• Marker lights
• Clearance lights
• Taillights
• Identification lights
Turn Signals and Brake Lights. At night your turn signals and brake lights are even more important for telling other drivers what you intend to do. Make sure you have clean, working turn signals and stop lights.
Windshield and Mirrors. It is more important at night than in the daytime to have a clean windshield and clean mirrors. Bright lights at night can cause dirt on your windshield or mirrors to create a glare of its own, blocking your view. Most people have experienced driving toward the sun just as it has risen or is about to set and found that they can barely see through a windshield that seemed to look o.k. in the middle of the day. Clean your windshield on the inside and outside for safe driving at night.
Night Driving Procedures
Pre-Trip Procedures. Make sure you are rested and alert. If you are drowsy, sleep before you drive! Even a nap can save your life or the lives of others. If you wear eye glasses, make sure they are clean and unscratched. Don’t wear sun glasses at night. Do a complete pre-trip inspection of your vehicle. Pay attention to checking all lights and reflectors and cleaning those you can reach.
Avoid blinding others. Glare from your headlights can cause problems for drivers coming towards you. They can also bother drivers going in the same direction you are, when your lights shine in their rearview mirrors. Dim your lights before they cause glare for other drivers. Dim your lights within 500 feet of an oncoming vehicle and when following another vehicle within 500 feet.
Avoid glare from oncoming vehicles. Do not look directly at lights of oncoming vehicles. Look slightly to the right at a right lane or edge marking, if available. If other drivers don’t put their low beams on. This increase glare for oncoming drivers and increases the chance of a crash.
Use high beams when you can. Some drivers make the mistake of always using low beams. This seriously cuts down on their ability to see ahead. Use high beams when it is safe and legal to do so. Use them when you are not within 500 feet of an approaching vehicle. Also, don’t let the inside of your cab get too bright. This makes it harder to see outside. Keep the interior light off and adjust your instrument lights as low as you can still be able to read the gauges.
If you get sleepy, stop driving at the nearest safe place. People often don’t realize how close they are to falling asleep even when their eyelids are falling shut. If you can safely do so, look at yourself in a mirror. If you look sleepy, or you just feel sleepy, stop driving! You are in a very dangerous condition. The only safe cure is to sleep.
Safety First!
Jayson Z
2.9 Driving in Fog
2.9 Driving in Fog
Driving in Fog
The best advice for driving in fog is don’t. It is preferable that you pull off the road into a rest area or truck stop until visibility is better. If you must drive, be sure to consider the following:
• Obey all fog-related warning signs
• Slow before you enter fog
• Turn on all your lights. (Headlights should be on low beams.)
• Be prepared for emergency stops
Safety First!
Jayson Z
Driving in Fog
The best advice for driving in fog is don’t. It is preferable that you pull off the road into a rest area or truck stop until visibility is better. If you must drive, be sure to consider the following:
• Obey all fog-related warning signs
• Slow before you enter fog
• Turn on all your lights. (Headlights should be on low beams.)
• Be prepared for emergency stops
Safety First!
Jayson Z
2.10 Driving in Winter
2.10 Driving in Winter
Make sure your vehicle is ready before driving in winter weather. You should make a regular pre-trip inspection, paying extra attention to the following items:
Vehicle Checks
Coolant Level and Antifreeze Amount. Make sure the cooling system is full and there is enough anti-freeze in the system to protect against freezing. This can be checked with a special coolant tester.
Defroster and Heating Equipment. Make sure the defrosters work. They are needed for safe driving. Make sure the heater is working, and that you know how to operate it. If you use other heaters and expect to need them (e.g., mirror heaters, battery box heaters, fuel tank heaters), check their operation.
Wipers and Washers. Make sure the windshield wiper blades are in good condition. Make sure the wiper blades press against the window hard enough to wipe the windshield clean. Otherwise they may not sweep off snow properly. Make sure the windshield washer works and there is washing fluid in the washer reservoir.
Use windshield washer antifreeze to prevent freezing of the washer fluid. If you can’t see well enough while driving (for example, if your wipers fail), stop safely and fix the problem.
Tires. Make sure you have enough tread on your tires. The drive tires must provide traction to push the rig over wet pavement and through snow. The steering tires must have traction to steer the vehicle. Enough tread is especially important in winter conditions. You must have at least 4/32 inch tread depth in every major groove on front tires and at least 2/32 inch on other tires. More would be better. Use a gauge to determine if you have enough tread for safe driving.
Tire Chains. You may find yourself in conditions where you can’t drive without chains, even to get to a place of safety. Carry the right number of chains and extra cross links. Make sure they will fit your drive tires. Check the chains for broken hooks, worn or broken cross links, and bent or broken side chains. Learn how to put the chains on before you need to do it in snow and ice.
Lights and Reflectors. Make sure the lights and reflectors are clean. Lights and reflectors are especially important during bad weather. Check from time to time during bad weather to make sure they are clean and working right.
Windows and Mirrors. Remove and ice, snow, etc., from the windshield, windows, and mirrors before starting. Use a windshield scraper, snow brush, and windshield defroster as necessary.
Hand Holds, Steps, and Deck Plates. Remove all ice and snow from hand holds, steps, and deck plates (cat walk) which you must use to enter the cab or to move about the vehicle. This will reduce the danger of slipping.
Radiator Shutters and Winterfront. Remove ice from the radiator shutters. Make sure the winterfront is not closed too tightly. If the shutters freeze shut or the winterfront is closed too much, the engine may overheat and stop.
Exhaust System. Exhaust system leaks are especially dangerous when cab ventilation may be poor (windows rolled up, etc.). Loose connections could permit poisonous carbon monoxide to leak into your vehicle. Carbon monoxide gas will cause you to be sleepy. In large enough amounts it can kill you. Check the exhaust system for loose parts and for sounds and signs of leaks.
Driving
Slippery Surface. Drive slowly and smoothly on slippery roads. If it is very slippery, you shouldn’t drive at all. Stop at the first safe place.
The following are some safety guidelines:
Start gently and slowly. When first starting, get the feel of the road. Don’t hurry.
Adjust turning and braking to conditions. Make turns as gently as possible. Don’t brake any harder than necessary, and don’t use the engine brake or speed retarder. (They can cause the driving wheels to skid on slippery surfaces.)
Adjust speed to conditions. Don’t pass slower vehicles unless necessary. Go slow and watch far enough ahead to keep a steady speed. Avoid having to slow down and speed up. Take curves at slower speeds and don’t brake while in curves. Be aware that as the temperature rises to the point where ice begins to melt, the road becomes even more slippery. Slow down more.
Adjust space to conditions. Don’t drive alongside other vehicles. Keep a longer following distance. When you see a traffic jam ahead, slow down or stop to wait for it to clear. Try hard to anticipate stops early and slow dawn gradually.
Wet Brakes. When driving in heavy rain or deep standing water, your brakes will get wet. Water in the brakes can cause the brakes to be weak, TO APPLY UNEVENLY, OR TO GRAB. This can cause lack of braking power, wheel lockups, pulling to one side or the other, and jackknife if you pull a trailer.
Avoid driving through deep puddles or flowing water if possible. If not, you should:
• Slow down
• Place transmission in a low gear
• Gently put on the brakes. This presses linings against brake drums or discs and keeps mud, silt, sand, and water from getting in.
• Increase engine RPM and cross the water while keeping light pressure on the brakes
• When out of the water, maintain light pressure on the brakes for a short distance to heat them up and dry them out
• Make a test stop when safe to do so. Check behind to make sure no one is following, then apply the brakes to be sure they work right. If not, dry out further as described above. (CAUTION: Do not apply too much brake pressure and accelerator at the same time or you can overheat brake drums and linings.)
Safety First!
Jayson Z
Make sure your vehicle is ready before driving in winter weather. You should make a regular pre-trip inspection, paying extra attention to the following items:
Vehicle Checks
Coolant Level and Antifreeze Amount. Make sure the cooling system is full and there is enough anti-freeze in the system to protect against freezing. This can be checked with a special coolant tester.
Defroster and Heating Equipment. Make sure the defrosters work. They are needed for safe driving. Make sure the heater is working, and that you know how to operate it. If you use other heaters and expect to need them (e.g., mirror heaters, battery box heaters, fuel tank heaters), check their operation.
Wipers and Washers. Make sure the windshield wiper blades are in good condition. Make sure the wiper blades press against the window hard enough to wipe the windshield clean. Otherwise they may not sweep off snow properly. Make sure the windshield washer works and there is washing fluid in the washer reservoir.
Use windshield washer antifreeze to prevent freezing of the washer fluid. If you can’t see well enough while driving (for example, if your wipers fail), stop safely and fix the problem.
Tires. Make sure you have enough tread on your tires. The drive tires must provide traction to push the rig over wet pavement and through snow. The steering tires must have traction to steer the vehicle. Enough tread is especially important in winter conditions. You must have at least 4/32 inch tread depth in every major groove on front tires and at least 2/32 inch on other tires. More would be better. Use a gauge to determine if you have enough tread for safe driving.
Tire Chains. You may find yourself in conditions where you can’t drive without chains, even to get to a place of safety. Carry the right number of chains and extra cross links. Make sure they will fit your drive tires. Check the chains for broken hooks, worn or broken cross links, and bent or broken side chains. Learn how to put the chains on before you need to do it in snow and ice.
Lights and Reflectors. Make sure the lights and reflectors are clean. Lights and reflectors are especially important during bad weather. Check from time to time during bad weather to make sure they are clean and working right.
Windows and Mirrors. Remove and ice, snow, etc., from the windshield, windows, and mirrors before starting. Use a windshield scraper, snow brush, and windshield defroster as necessary.
Hand Holds, Steps, and Deck Plates. Remove all ice and snow from hand holds, steps, and deck plates (cat walk) which you must use to enter the cab or to move about the vehicle. This will reduce the danger of slipping.
Radiator Shutters and Winterfront. Remove ice from the radiator shutters. Make sure the winterfront is not closed too tightly. If the shutters freeze shut or the winterfront is closed too much, the engine may overheat and stop.
Exhaust System. Exhaust system leaks are especially dangerous when cab ventilation may be poor (windows rolled up, etc.). Loose connections could permit poisonous carbon monoxide to leak into your vehicle. Carbon monoxide gas will cause you to be sleepy. In large enough amounts it can kill you. Check the exhaust system for loose parts and for sounds and signs of leaks.
Driving
Slippery Surface. Drive slowly and smoothly on slippery roads. If it is very slippery, you shouldn’t drive at all. Stop at the first safe place.
The following are some safety guidelines:
Start gently and slowly. When first starting, get the feel of the road. Don’t hurry.
Adjust turning and braking to conditions. Make turns as gently as possible. Don’t brake any harder than necessary, and don’t use the engine brake or speed retarder. (They can cause the driving wheels to skid on slippery surfaces.)
Adjust speed to conditions. Don’t pass slower vehicles unless necessary. Go slow and watch far enough ahead to keep a steady speed. Avoid having to slow down and speed up. Take curves at slower speeds and don’t brake while in curves. Be aware that as the temperature rises to the point where ice begins to melt, the road becomes even more slippery. Slow down more.
Adjust space to conditions. Don’t drive alongside other vehicles. Keep a longer following distance. When you see a traffic jam ahead, slow down or stop to wait for it to clear. Try hard to anticipate stops early and slow dawn gradually.
Wet Brakes. When driving in heavy rain or deep standing water, your brakes will get wet. Water in the brakes can cause the brakes to be weak, TO APPLY UNEVENLY, OR TO GRAB. This can cause lack of braking power, wheel lockups, pulling to one side or the other, and jackknife if you pull a trailer.
Avoid driving through deep puddles or flowing water if possible. If not, you should:
• Slow down
• Place transmission in a low gear
• Gently put on the brakes. This presses linings against brake drums or discs and keeps mud, silt, sand, and water from getting in.
• Increase engine RPM and cross the water while keeping light pressure on the brakes
• When out of the water, maintain light pressure on the brakes for a short distance to heat them up and dry them out
• Make a test stop when safe to do so. Check behind to make sure no one is following, then apply the brakes to be sure they work right. If not, dry out further as described above. (CAUTION: Do not apply too much brake pressure and accelerator at the same time or you can overheat brake drums and linings.)
Safety First!
Jayson Z
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